Jeff is a huge part of the push for the track.  He'd know who you were talking about if you asked him about Brad with grey MR2.
The RX7 always turns heads,  It's not a very pretty car at the moment but the LS exhaust note always gets peoples attention.    The Kart track isn't suited to big HP cars, it will be an awesome car to see on a real track.
My own car only gets two gear changes a lap, Up the third and back to second on the front straight, the rest of the lap is all second gear.
 
I'm finally managing to find the right people/companies it seems.  
Drag racing is huge up here and all the workshops/performance shops focus on drag racing and street cars, so it's frustrating me a lot.  Anyone that races anything with corners has to go it alone basically.
Half of the fun for me is modifying car so it's not all bad, But I'd at least like to be able to buy stuff like rod ends over the counter and be able to get advice that is relevant instead of being based of drag racing and speedway.
The best you can get for over the counter rod ends are industrial types from places like Statewide Bearings.
For castor adjustment I'm looking making from adjustable tension rods using 5/8 chromo rod end and chromo tube with a bracket bolted the stock control arm.   Like the tension rods in the RacerX replacement lower arm/tension rod kit.  The sticking point is wall thickness on the tube,  I'm not sure how thin it can be in the threaded section.

Just throwing some numbers down.
Chromo tube with 5/8" x 1/2 rod ends, thread cut into the tube. Jam nut butting against the tube end.
 
5/8-18 thread has a major diameter of 0.6250" (15.875mm)
With 19.05 x 2.4 tube there would be a remaining wall of 1.58mm with a sharp stress riser at the bottom of every thread.
22.2x4mm tube would be 3.16mm remaining wall.

19.05x2.4 weighs 982grams/meter
22.2x4  weighs 1.762Kg/meter.

1/2 x 1/2 rod end
19.05x4mm is 1.481kg/meter
15.8mm tube would be down at 1.5mm wall and would be weaker than using 19.05x 2.4 tube with a 5/8 thread


If i've calculated correctly,  by the end that I was confusing my self
 
 

B24
You do not need to go past 2.5 for a road spec tyre.

That doesn't make sense to me. 
Everything I've read says camber at roll is what we are looking for, static camber is the result of the camber gain/loss from the suspension geometry and the roll in the body.
I would also think that the castor angle would effect the amount of camber needed with the more neg camber gain as you increase castor angle.
so the static camber for your car would need to be different to my car given the same tyre due to my car still having the soft factory parts.
And what works for me now would not necessarily work with stiffer springs and better shocks.

Happy to be proven wrong though.

Nice track car Brad

Have done a deal with a bloke I know in the panel shop near my workshop.
I replace the starter in his Falcon ute. (he supplied the new starter)
He is going to take the MR2, take all the paint of the seams in the door opening and spot weld between all of the factory spot welds.
There shouldn't be more than 15mm between any pair of spot welds.
 

Sounds like a good idea. IT certainly helps the chassis. Need to do the strut towers too.
 

Got the car back today.
Seems it was a good move, the car has had the left rear 1/4 panel replaced at some point and there was only 4 spot weld on the B pillar from top to bottom.  That has been fixed.
 
Strut top will be done when I'm doing the welding on the the brace, and the there is some easy to get to stuff inside the car that I'll attempt to get done before the next race weekend
 
 

 

You don't realise how much weight is in the double skinned firewall until you spend the time to drill the spot welds and remove the second skill and sound deadening. 
 
 

Heading out to the track this weekend.  

Hoping to drop 0.20 off the lap time to catch back up with the quickest car from last round.
I'll grab some photo's and possibly some gopro footage of the laps

Bradm
You don't realise how much weight is in the double skinned firewall until you spend the time to drill the spot welds and remove the second skill and sound deadening. 

Is this the firewall behind the seats? How much weight did you manage to pull out and how much work was it? Did you just use regular drill bits to remove the spot welds or use some fancy tool? I'm looking at removing it but don't want to bite off too much and end up with a half hacked job I never finish.