Great information on this forum and the search function is your friend. Here is Darius' earlier post. Radiator I have taken out matches the one above. PWR matches the one below.
 
i can safely say my 96 NA radiator, is larger than the replacement i used from a 91 Turbo Radiator both in thickness and in dimension. Both seem to be fine but i'm haven't really tracked my car, if are going to use a different size radiator make sure to take the fans as well. My fans from 96 model dont match the 91 model. 
 


 
post edited by darius - Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:31 AM
Darius.What did you do with your 96 model fans? Looks like I'm now searching for later model fans or at least the fan shrouds if the fans are interchangeable.
 
Anyone else have surplus late model fans?

Another option is an aftermarket fan shroud+ fans which will bolt straight up. You can find them on ebay by mishimoto I think the brand is.
See if they are still available.

Mrskylighter
Highlander, was your car originally an N/A? If so I believe the n/a cars had smaller radiators and fans.
Last pwr rad I bought fitted my 1990 turbo import perfectly. Awesome quality part aswell!

My car had a strange upbringing. Originally a turbo import converted to NA for Production Sports racing in Australia or so I have been told. Now stuffed with a 2GR.
 
I am very impressed with the quality also. Aluminium welds belong in an art gallery.
 
My old radiator has leaked since the day I got the car. Slightly rusty water on the trailer after the first drive. Being a MR2 noob at that stage I put it down to an overflow at the radiator.Turned out that there was a hole corroded completely through the hose flange on the right side of the radiator,  Learned lots of (expensive) MR2 lessons in the past 12 months.
 

More dramas. The larger PWR radiator wont physically fit without some 5 kg hammer treatment on the body. Seems that there were also some very subtle body sheetmetal changes to  accommodate the larger radiator in the later models.
 
Going back to the original plan. PWR will make a new radiator to the smaller specs and i will use the original fans. Impressed with PWR customer service on this issue but now another 10-14 days before the 2GR toy is mobile again.
 
 

Highlander, how much did PWR charge for the larger radiator? I'd be interested to know so I can check how the cost stacks up against an OEM one from a supplier like Amayama. 

mister2
Highlander, how much did PWR charge for the larger radiator? I'd be interested to know so I can check how the cost stacks up against an OEM one from a supplier like Amayama. 

PM'd.Quality/Service is great but you certainly pay for it. PWR I think stands for Professional Wallet Rape.

Jay what issue have you heard about the PWR rads?

I have a PWR made one on my car (89 model SW20), fitted perfect, factory fans fitted perfect.
 
I have ditched the factory fans, due to weight, current draw, size and age, altho my car is a track garage only car.
Most racing i wont even need the fans on, only really for idling in the pits or start line ect, hill climbs and small tracks theres more sitting around then actual fast racing, so need them then. from memory Steve dosent have any fans on his car?
 
Also for street car i would keep the factory fans, the shrouds (air con fitted model or whatever that had the 2 big fans) are much better then aftermarket for airflow unless you make up a big shroud, even then the tapered shape of the factory fan shrouds is hard to beat.

One thing to note with PWR, or some or most aftermarket is can be tricky with fitting a bleed tap.
 
I ordered my PWR with a -4AN fitting on the top for air bleed, not sure if thats the normal or if they have a barb, or if some have taps? 

To bleed the air out, as its lower then the filler neck on the motor, if you just had a AN cap on it, and undid that, it will just overflow and or suck air in before you can get your air tube on, so you need a tap of sorts.
 
You may need to fit a -4 ect ball valve, but as the fitting on the rad is very close to the chassis (no room above it) may need a 90 deg elbow or fitting if you want to run a short hose between rad and ball valve.
 
I have a a drybreak fitting on mine, but a ball valve will be much cheaper and work great. plastic taps just be carefull of the temps.

My PWR came with a -4/JIC fitting on the top as well so I'm assuming that's what they do standard. I have just used a blanking cap to block this off instead of making it a bleed point. I have successfully bled the cooling system a number of times without using the bleed point on the radiator so I saw no need in having it.