Guys,
Looking into changing my brakes a bit as I find my Hyundai stops better than the MR2
I currently have the stock earlier version brakes with a disabled ABS system. Unknown brake pads (**** quality really)
What’s the best bang for buck upgrade for my needs ( driven on the weekends only, and maybe to cruises and car meets, maybe small track work like hillclimbs etc)
 
Would getting a set of slotted/drilled rotors and some decent brake pads be the way to go? (well that’s what im leaning towards) or should I just get some normal rotors and decent brake pads
Im not sure if going to the bigger later version brake setup would be worth it for me as I have heard conflicting reports (on forums) after people have upgraded.
 
Also one more thing my clutch pedal has started to make a clicking sound when pressed all the way in, not sure whats happening there.
cheers

I've recently changed my whole car over to the later model brakes (later M/C soon too), as the fronts were already shagged when I bought the car, so I went with some slotted rotors too. I do drive the car pretty hard on occasion so I wanted the best factory brakes on mine, important being a heavier turbo too. You basically said your car is used for tame street use so I would say the earlier setup might be perfectly fine?
Just make sure you have fresh fluid in there and bled properly, get some decent pads all round (I use and like Ferodo) and then see if that makes a difference and go from there.
 

RDA (google them) mention the MR2 Club, near the corner of Springvale and Cheltenham Roads, for pads and rotors (slotted and dimpled .... he doesn't do drilled).  And the way to go is to reconnect your ABS.

+ what MRTurbo said as good fluids and pads should make quite a difference. I got Porterfield R4S from Two's R Us and Motul 5.1 with stock rotors on my early model brakes and they held up fine at Wakefield MR2 Challenge lap after lap no lock ups or fade with R comps (maybe I didn't push harder enough heh). I will try TRW pads from Delta V next time as shipping from US is murder lol

You can have big fancy red calipers & massive pizza slotted rotors.......But if your pads are substandand, you'll still stop worse than an Excel.
 
My AW11 SC felt fantastic after I rebuilt the calipers & bled the system properly.

+1 for fluid and pads! I've run Penrite Sin dot4 with QFM A1RM front and TRW rears for an hour straight, flat out around Wakefield and never had a sign of fade!
The TRW pads only lasted 2 track days, I am replacing them with QFM A1RM. I've never bought any other pads so I can't compare them to anything else, I've never had a problem and I'm happy with $120 a set from GSL Rallysport.

My car is NA with the OEM small brakes and M/C
I used to be unhappy with my braking performance and wondered about updating stuff, bigger brakes etc to try to improve it. I hated the soft pedal, and front wheel shake under heavy braking.
 
Finally I fitted RDA stock rotors (no slots,dimples etc), put a reco kit through all calipers and fitted STOCK Toyota pads.
After draining and filling with a heavy duty brake fluid, I finally went to a lot of effort to bleed the system several times after activating the ABS at slow speed on a gravel road.
The result - fantastic!!!
Great pedal feel, smooth even braking with no wheel shake under heavy braking, and no fade apparent even during a Winton track day shortly after I did the job.
 
Early ABS no good?
Look, this is just my own opinion based on my own experience, but I feel that the stock ABS works fine with the OEM wheels and tyres Toyota designed it to work with, so you're probably better off with it connected if you've still got those.
However with large diameter wheels and low profile tyres it is a different ballgame especially on rough surfaces, and since many people have these on their car, I suspect that is why they disconnect it.
 

My car has stock rotors and god knows what calipers,
Got a decent flush and refill using really good motul fluid and made the world of difference

Held up at Wakefield no lockups unless I slammed it to the floor obviously no fading and best of all no loss of pressure in the pedal.

And is still going perfect to this day.

Honestly try just fresh pads and a full flush and bleed by someone who knows what they are doing.

In regards to your clutch noise mine makes a similar squeak while being pushed in,
Could be clutch release fork, shagged bushings or just a worn clutch plate.

Or even just dry clutch bush or dirty clutch fluid?

Thanks for the replies guys,
just so that everyones on the same page, the ABS was NOT working when i bought the car, its been disconnected by the previous owner, i tried to reconnect it but nothing happens so im guessing sits seen better days..
 
my brake rotors dont look that good tbh i will see what the brake places say after they are measured and wethere they are worth replacing
i will def buy new pads and change the brake fluid to a good quality one.
 
Redtarga - wasnt there a watch and learn coming up your joint sometime soon?? my cars probably a good candidate for this lol..
 
cheers

TRW pads only lasted two track days? WOW thats not alot of mileage. I have done 4 on the same pads will alot of meat still left on the same pads.
 
Your car Steve? personally i would still upgrade to the later gear, but make sure the booster and master cylinder changes too. slotted discs yeah i guess so, but you barely drive it let alone track it.