I know your meant to use the double sided thread studs with a nut on one end to bolt the dp to the turbo.
The guy before me has used a straight up bolt for all of them(see attached) is there any negatives to repeating this again?

See pic attached of what he used and below is what should be used

Im doing my best effort to sort as much as i can out while everything is out to help future issues

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The short answer:

Use studs.

Will bolts work, yes.

Reason: it's to do with how studs distribute force, clearance and working loose.

I have extra studs from when I did mine if you go down that path.

I should also have copper plated lock nuts which are the right ones to use, a PITA to find and not cheap. I think I might just have enough (6) to get you by.

I can also tell you the proper installation method to ensure they don't work loose or seize.

Can you tell I've well and truly been down this road...

I only need 2 studs and nuts to be all good, what price u chasing for them?
And any info would be appreciated. Ive got my manifold and turbo off atm so il drop everything in most likely fully assembled
If you have any spare turbo to manifold bolts il buy them off you too(the gen3 ones with the 2 different thread sizes on eaxh end)

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-I would give you the studs (or postage) but I'd recommend using the same type nut on all studs?

-manifold to turbo studs; I'll check

-installing studs: thread lock on head/manifold/turbo end 'finger tight' (the way a stud can outperform a bolt in clamping efficiency has to do with the even distribution of stress across the engaged threads), anti seize on nut end

Let me know a price for the 2 studs and the 6 nuts and 4 of the turbo studs anf nuts if you have them.
Postage to brassall QLD if you can,depending on where u live i can collect.

Does the threadlock make it hard for the bolts to come out later on in the future?

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Some of this might be obvious to you but...

-use new gaskets

-replace oxygen sensor gasket (these are normally falling apart)

-there are 2 'water inlets' on turbo, one is a block off plate, but both use the same gasket

-DO NOT use any gasket maker on any of those surfaces, particularly the oil feed/return

-clean the head surface really well (I used a wire type head on a rotary tool

-if you have an A/M dump pipe it will foul on studs by a few mm if you leave the air con compressor in place and install it with turbo/manifold in place

-the turbo oil feed (on block) uses unique sized washers (2x)

-do oil cooler gaskets/hoses if you've got that off

All good haha. Yeh im using brand new oem everything gaskets you name it. Replaced the hoses from hell to! Got a brand new berk dp and got my exhaust manifold re surfaced and ceramic coated. I will hower clean up the block side of the manifold surface too as u said

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Thread lock doesn't so much 'glue' the stud it just makes it more resistant to turning out of the thread. Hence why you don't tighten the crap out of the stud like most people do. Once you get to the shoulder (unthreaded section) your not doing anything by tightening it. The issue is normally the nut seizing to the stud (hence copper plated nuts and anti-seize).

Sounds like you're all over it