Yo-yo,

Been creating a stockpile of parts that I need to get around to installing.. unfortunately work and recent lifestyle changes are keeping me from getting enough free time to get it all sorted. Have a few more bits I'd love to get installed sometime soon such as a Greddy EBC, RacerX ceramic coated side mount intercooler and an unidentified aftermarket 3-inch ceramic down pipe.

Luckily I've tried to stay focused and have achieved some progress. First job being flushing out the old green coolant and replacing with proper Toyota red concentrate 50/50 mix with distilled water. Unfortunately this was long, long overdue and the anti-corrosion inhibitors in the green coolant must of expired centuries ago as it looks like the inside of the pipes were rusted out (took ages to flush out)

Whilst doing this I decided to change out the thermostat as the car had some difficult reaching operating temp. Very glad I did this as after pulling the original, it became known that the valve had completely rusted away effectively creating a permanently open thermostat (see picture below)


 

Dunno if useful, but:
 
"OAT is recommended in engines with aluminum components (heads or radiators) because Borates can be bad for them.
OAT coolants also have extended lives, up to 150,000 mi.

OAT corrosion inhibitors provide excellent long-term protection for aluminum and cast iron, but may not be the best choice for older cooling systems that have copper/brass radiators and heater cores, especially the lead solder used in them. It depends on the formula."
 
AFAIK, Toyota's red coolant is OAT (Organic Acid Technology) type.
 

seasalt
Dunno if useful, but:
 
"OAT is recommended in engines with aluminum components (heads or radiators) because Borates can be bad for them.
OAT coolants also have extended lives, up to 150,000 mi.

OAT corrosion inhibitors provide excellent long-term protection for aluminum and cast iron, but may not be the best choice for older cooling systems that have copper/brass radiators and heater cores, especially the lead solder used in them. It depends on the formula."
 
AFAIK, Toyota's red coolant is OAT (Organic Acid Technology) type.
 

Not sure what you're trying to point out, sorry mate. I've just gone based off the official owner's manual/BGB which states to use a 50/50 mix with Toyota red concentrate. A lot of other members have agreed that it is the ideal solution

I have no idea what type of formula the green coolant was, as it was in the car when I first bought it

Ordered in a new set of OEM ignition leads as well as a distributor cap and rotor arm. It was a really nice and easy swap over, apart from the ignition leads harness cover (seen below) being the biggest pain in my ass. Unfortunately broke two of the retaining clips in the process but thankfully it doesn't really matter

Also included comparison photos of old vs. new parts - glad I decided to do this. Although I don't really have any ignition issues such as misfiring,etc. I definitely felt like the car was more responsive and smoother after swapping these old corroded parts out
 

 

 

 
Very excited also as I'm booked in tomorrow for a clutch replacement. Ordered a full Exedy OEM replacement clutch kit, including a brand new OEM clutch slave cylinder, braided clutch line and a replacement shift selector bell crank bushing (unpictured) which should hopefully improve gearshift feel

That different coolants suit different metals or combos, and that the red is probably best, so yr doing the right thing.. I think.
 

seasalt
That different coolants suit different metals or combos, and that the red is probably best, so yr doing the right thing.. I think.
 

Lets hope so haha!

Unfortunately I have no photos to show as it was all done by my mechanic but the clutch kit and supporting bits have been installed. The car feels absolutely awesome to drive compared to how it previously was, and the best thing is no more thrust bearing rattle!!

Work done included clutch kit, thrust bearing, new OEM slave cylinder, new braided clutch line and replacing the shift selector bell crank bushing which improved shifter throw and tightness a lot. Purchased everything from PRIME MR2 over in America and I am very happy with the final product and results

Will admit I'm struggling to drive the car now as it feels so different (clutch bite point is like 1mm off being fully depressed) however I just need more seat time

With all that out of the way, all that's left is maybe replace a few gaskets to ensure car is up to date and I'll start organising my Greddy EBC install and 3-inch turbo back exhaust. Currently eyeballing the Berk system however I'm still open to suggestions

I like the way you are taking this. Getting all the problem areas up to original good new condition before tackling any upgrades. Well done.

You can adjust the clutch at the pedal. Are you getting full disengagement?

Falcon
I like the way you are taking this. Getting all the problem areas up to original good new condition before tackling any upgrades. Well done.

Thanks Doug. She's not up to tip-top shape yet but compared to when I first bought it, it feels completely different

5SGTE
You can adjust the clutch at the pedal. Are you getting full disengagement?

I actually didn't know this. Wouldn't have a link available would you?
I'm sure the clutch fully disengages when the pedal is depressed as I have no issues changing gears, it's just the bite point I struggle with (will admit I've always been a bad manual driver though)