i got 176kw on a forged gen 2 with a hiflow ct26, PFC, cooler, intake and exhaust with an ebay dump pipe with a supposedly hiflow cat on it running 14psi
my intercooler fan wasnt working and intake temps skyrocketed ( i think it was around 60plus degrees)
the intake temp. has a lot to do with how much power you make.
and a puny sidemount with no aftermarket fan on it (or in my case fan not working)  aint gonna cut the cheese.
 
170ish kw is the norm for a gen 2 running a ct26 on 14-15psi going by the yank forums.
 
i think you need to fix the shutting off problem first then move to the next problem and solve it.

Here's a video of it starting up showing the FPR you can hear it whine up after it starts cranking. And this was after doing some driving so it was only reading a bit above 40 but the other night when it was cold it was definately reading 60. And the tuner definately told me 60.
So idk if it changes depending on the temp or not.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bE35sXmY_ZE

Also there is a fan always running on the intercooler and 2 big spal fans on the engine lid

purple5ive
170ish kw is the norm for a gen 2 running a ct26 on 14-15psi going by the yank forums.
 

 
The yanks often use mustang or dynojet dyno's that are known to read pretty high though...
 
agree completely on intake temps... my final dyno runs were done with 85degree inlet temps....... nasty.

So I've been calling this shop back all the time since the day I got my car back and the guy is basicly avoiding me. He never answered the phone and is always "with a customer" or "working on a car" I understand they had to go to WTAC last week but still I've been calling all the time and I keep getting told he will call me back. All I wanna do is book my car back in for them to fix it and apparantly that's just too difficult.
It's still having its issues but doesn't do it while driving anymore because I keep the revs up aroun slow turns and I've found out it isn't only turns the other night I sat in my car after starting it for about 10 min then turned on the lights and it died.
From what I figure that's going wrong is that the rpms aren't adjusting for the extra power consumption when I use anything using more electricity.
I'm assuming this all comes just down to the programming of the ecu. Although it has 2 times now that I go to start the car and it won't start. But I let the car sit for 4 days came back and it started right up.

I just spent 10 min on hold only to be told to call back at opening tomorrow. Let's hope he takes me call this time. If not I'm just gonna take the car there and just leave it there.

And he still hasn't sent me the dyno sheet after telling me he would almost 2 weeks ago

I would just turn up there and nicely tell them to fix the problem or your going to take it to the automotive ombudsman, or small buisness tribunal or whatever they are called.
thats should get them going quick smart.
 
make sure you have evidence of what the cars doing like videos etc, as we all know that when the mechanic checks it everythign will be hunkydory.
 
cheers

All fixed!
I'm not sure exactly how to describe what was wrong but basicly when things like the power steering where on the bat voltage would go down to like 10v and the comp wasn't tuned for it to go that low or something like that. He showed me the screen and he changed some numbers from like 1.3 to 2 and it fixed it and so now hopefully all my car problems are over. And here's the dyno sheet.
Sorry guys I don't know how I got the number I had I have a horrible horrible memory for numbers.

Starts first go, everytime now?

Its 247 HP not KW thats about 180ish Kw
 
cheers