Oh, I didn't install the boost controller. Basically I bought the car a few months ago. Everything was running fine and it used to make full boost wihtout an issue befoer the track day. It's also a Gen 3 so no airflow meter. I had a split intercooler joiner at the track but still ran the day with boost leaking. As it's not running a airflow meter and using a MAP sensor it should be okay. However after fitting the new hose I've noticed that the car is not back to what it was. Here are the symptoms:
 
Slow to boost and has a hesitation when boost starts comming on.
Makes around 7-8psi on low boost when set to 10psi
Makes around 11-12psi when boost is set to 15psi.
If I floor the throttle in ny gear it bogs down.
If I apply partical throttle it revs out fine and accelerates faster.
 
What i've done is check for fault codes, none are showing.
Reset ecu. The ecu reset did help a bit however it still is underperforming.
Checked turbo, blades are good, very little play, spins even at idle.
Checked BOV, doesn't seem to be leaking.
Checked piping, all vislible pipes seem good.
Checked vacuum hoses, all seem to be good. I've even pinched shut all vacuum hoses on the intake manifold to see if it makes a difference to idle, none of them did except the stepper motor one, so I would think no leaks.
 Plus are black but dry carbon. They look quiet crappy.
Leads all have current pass through. Resistance is between 7ohm for short one to 24omh for long one.
I can't see any exhaust leaks. 
 

Had another thought on what it could be. Maybe a fueling issue like the blocked filter or problem in rising rate regulator. If it isn't getting enough fuel could explain why it runs better at partical throttle rather then full as its gettign the correct air fuel ratio, also as it will run lean at higher boost because of the lack of fuel, could cause it to ping thus setting low boost condition, limiting boost and retarding the timing....
I'll have to see if I've got a fuel pressure guage sitting around. Hope its as simple as a blocked fuel filter.

check your knock sensor, could have blown it. that will show all the above symptoms you are describing as well.
cheers
 

Hey, I was thinking origionally it could be the knock sensor but no fault codes came up on the diagnostic. I called toyota about it and asked if the knock sensor is faulty will it always register on the diagnostic port or is there cases where it wont but they said it will always register if it's faulty. Does anyone know if having a chipped ecu means the diagnostics are always clear and no faults show?
What i'm thinking is I can unplug the MAP sensor and run the diagnostic and see if that sets a fault code. Will unplugging the MAP sensor trigger a fault code? I would assume it breaks the circuit and should trigger a fault to register right?

from memory the knock sensor will not always trigger a Error code, cant remeber now off the top of my head, but i had a knock sensor blow on mke and remeber seeing a few different opinions on wethere they have error code or not but mine def did have a code i think 54 or something like that.
if you have a spare ecu or can borrow from someone else put that in and check for codes.

purple5ive, do you remember if your check engine light was flashing when your knock sensor went? Was there anything on the dash telling you your in low boost/limp mode?

Dont remember the CEL flashing
car was just driving ok on low boost and as soon as i started to accelerate/boost the turbo would be whining away but the car not go anywhere and get a bit of hesitation and shuddering
did the Error codes and got 54 i think changed the knock sensor and all was back to normal.
 
i know you said you checked the bov but maybe remove it and block the port and see if thats also causing it.
 
did you unplug the Map sensor and see if the the ECU gave any error codes??

Definately no the BOV because I wouldn't be able to get more boost when I hit high boost on the controller. I coould hear the BOV functioning properly as well. I dont think its a boost related issue, I definately think everything is able to boost properly but I'm sure the car is in safe/low boost mode as that explains the 3psi less  at every setting and the hesitation with lack of power.
The car is not parked where I live so I will check it on the weekend and see if unpluggin the MAP sensor triggers a code. I spoke to REV Zone and they said the power FC's still interface with the diagnostic port so I'd be suprised if the Mines chip doesn't also. I do get the steady flashing light still when bridging ports.
I might give the fuel filter a shot as it could be partically blocked causing lower pressure. Low fuel pressure will 100% cause a knock.

Awesome, got all the plugs out today and all were brown except for cylinder 3, that was black . Got new ignition parts on the way so all should be good.

I hope you get your issue sorted soon, but driving the car on the track in that state should have meant you just drove it home...
 
Done a compression test yet?