Anyway it had Greddy T7340-7 plugs in it.
 
I'm not sure if it was okay to run those, but we got it to start tho it didn't last long, just snuffed out.
 
Its got Japanese lettering throughout the car. having to go over all the things and find out what they do.
 
It was a G with no spoiler? whats that....

I think the models in Japan were - G limited, G, GTS, and GT, in order of trim and spec.
 
I may have missed on in there...

A "G" with no spoiler is the most basic trim level offered for the JDM SW20s. Without optional extras there are no spoilers, no power windows, no A/C. Which also means it's the most lightest and a perfect candidate as a track car. It's also pretty damn rare possibly even more rare than a Rev 5?? (dunno maybe lol)
However...if your boot lid got swapped then it might not be a genuine "G". Only way to really know is if you check the Chassis No. or Frame No. on Toyodiy which you can find on a metal card under the frunk I think.
I've got one side of the plastic lining as a spare if you need it. Need to check which side tho...you can have it for free or only pay postage if interstate.
+1 leaving the body stock, I personally have difficulty finding an aftermarket kit better than late model stock but that's subjective...

Welcome. I just had a Beau Maddin/Maddern in my course at college in Newcastle. Where are you located - please fill in the details so 'locals' can help you on your way. Personally, I like the no-spoiler look.

Because we are having trouble getting it to fire on all 4 properly, im not 100% sure the windows work.
Putting it on ACC doesn't get the car's windows or even the speakers working not even in the on position, but when it runs i will try the windows and stuff.
The number in the spare Tyre bay is SW20-0017295
The boot is 100% clean of defects, no fill in's where holes were drilled. or on the rear side panels. 
Super cheap didnt have the NGK BKR6EP-8 plugs they had -11. So he referred me to Repco, but there closed now. (Can i use BKR6E?)
The car fires, splutters, idles for a few seconds, then you try and give it some gas n up the revs, just snuffs out.

"Putting it on ACC doesn't get the car's windows working."
They should work with ignition fully on, even if the motor is not running.

So i replaced the plugs with BKR6E (Copper alternative) to BKR6EP-8
 
Car still don't start, None of the electrics work, so weird, the fan starts in "ON" position, but nothing else. the lights work while your trying to start the car.
 
Car is all like chika chika chika chika chika chika chika
but not VROOM, wum wum wum wum wum wum
Not sure where to look next.

Hey welce nice but she it won't start :(
Check dizzy vaccum connections and make sure your grounds are all good I'd recommend also yeah might be worth doing a compression test In it
Your on the money with the gasket tho

Where did you say ou were from do you know what the number plate previously was? I recognise that car

^comp test is a good idea
Yeh just keep doing the basics like air, fuel, spark (forgot which order lol) and eventually you'll find the problem

Btw that was meant to say hey welcome nice buy shame she won't start :(

And vaccum hoses ( all the hoses that connect to your Intake and tb )

Distributor, leads, igniter, is it throwing any ecu codes if I remember In my previous code it threw a faulty O2 sensor engine light flashes for a number which equates to your engine code number

Also comp test in my car with 225xxxkms came up 182-185-185-190 which is really good
So make sure there all about the same within 10 psi of each other
A tester you can get from super heap or any auto place I paid 45$ for mine

If its blown a head gasket your water will be milky colour and it will be through your oil as well

If it is down on compression
Try liqui moli full engine detox and flush few mechanics swear by it.

But yeah start with the basics really mate. :)