Hey everyone

Last night I purchased some new wheels because i was sick of the 17x7 +45 offset all the way round, and In my haste to get new wheels for the christmas run, I accidentally made a mistake :S
it seems i've bought wheels that are going to poke a little too much. 20mm's of poke to be precise.
has anyone here had their guards pulled/flared/pumped to fit larger wheels? how much can the they be pulled out?
the car is getting raised up a fair bit to accomodate the new wheels and tires, but I still want it to be semi legal ;) 
as for the stretch of tires, ive scored some decent bridgestones for free just to get around on until I can afford semi slicks, but they should be alot better than rotala's

specs of wheels and tires are 17x8 +15 front with 225/40 and 17x9 +15 255/40 rear 
 
Thanks everyone
 
-Eric

**** that is going to be some rim poke
 
I would have streched some 215's on the from and 235's on the back to round the edges.
 
I have a  guard roller and rolled my own guards, the front can be rolled and slightly flared using the roller and a heat gun,
 
The back is not so easy, you can roll the top of the guard, but where the side vents and rear bar clip into the arch it can really be rolled, it needs to be some custom metal / fibreglass work.

or pay someone to do it.....

if your in vic i know someone that can roll your guards. pm for deatils.

even if you roll your guards, its going to be a lot of poke. at most flaring by rolling gets you a few more mm.
 
you might need to go aftermarket flares/guards to be legal with no poke.

sounds easier (and probably more legal)just  to get different wheels ... instead of modifying the body...
just sayin

DON'T USED STRETCHED TIRES!
It's unsafe, you get **** handling and it looks s**t.
 
You 'might' be able to get some of the rims mounting faceplate machined back 5-10mm to change the offset back closer to +20-+25 to bring the wheels in under the guards some more. Otherwise, buy some wheels that fit properly

if you machined the rim to change the offset wouldn't you be loosing important meat right where it's bolting to the hub? the wheel nut will be clamping down on metal that would be 5-10mm thinner(what ever the amount is you remove)

Judging by what I have seen - flares will not be necessary.

http://www.rimtuck.com/se...p;model=MR2&sort=1
 
This vehicle is running
(F) 17x9 +22 215/40R17
(R) 17x10 +22 245/40R17
 
I inputted your wheel specs  (New Tire/Wheel Information) and the of the above (Old/Stock Tire/Wheel Information) abovethe Gordaen MR2 wheel calculator and came up with following....
 
http://mr2.gordaen.com/wt_calc.php
Old/Stock Tire/Wheel Information
 
Personally if I was in your position - I would look into swapping or returning wheels and get something around the +30 to +35 offset range.

I have 17x8 +28 on the front and 17x9 +25 on the rear on my mr2. It fits on standard camber and the wheel guards rolled. I'm lowered on coilovers and it does sometimes rub on high speed bumps.
 
I would think that you will need alot of camber, rolled guards and streched tyres.
Is the car lowered? If so, you will need stiffer suspension to limit the suspension travel.