2010/10/06 21:35:12
robk
quote:
Originally posted by Bionikal

quote:
Originally posted by surok

well i would goo with the HDCB because exedy hd is what callum has in his sw20.. i doubt that would stand up to daily 250kw...



The NA and Turbo HD ones are very different (I have had both).
The HD will hold up to 250, just not repeatedly for hard launches. Street duties should be more than enough.

If you want to line it up for a few passes at the drags, you are gonna have issues.



I plan on going to the drags a few times a year but that's all. Do you think the heavy duty cushion button clutch would be alright in that case?
2010/10/06 21:48:01
Bionikal
outside my expertise with that one. Depends on how brutally you launch it i'd say.
2010/11/06 01:35:38
cazSW20
Just be prepared to pay for whatever the hard launches on a brass button clutch breaks.

They (bb clutch) place a fair bit of stress on engine mounts and what not, but thats nothing that cant be replaced.
2010/11/06 07:20:29
jpaudio
I have a heavy duty organic one, not puck and for 190kw its been fine, ask Dyl about his... also while your at it get a lightened flywheel!
2010/11/06 08:46:51
Bionikal
quote:
Originally posted by jpaudio

I have a heavy duty organic one, not puck and for 190kw its been fine, ask Dyl about his... also while your at it get a lightened flywheel!



+1

I wish I did my flywheel, oh well, when the stupid exedy bearing gets replaced :)
2010/06/15 21:31:28
robk
Latest progress (no new photos yet)...

I removed the engine bay fuse box, so it can be relocated in the boot very soon. I only did this for aesthetic reasons, and I must admit that I regret starting this painful task, but once I started I had to continue. It took me many painful hours to remove most of the contacts/terminals from the back of the fuse box, and I gave up on removing the final 5 wires so I had to cut them. I might also relocate the relays and other bits and pieces that are located near that fuse box.

The block and head will probably be back tomorrow. The new cams and valve springs have been fitted, and the setup of the shims and buckets has been changed to something more suitable (I'll get more info on this shortly).

I'll paint the cam cover black once fittings have been added for an oil catch can.

I still haven't got a clutch, I need to get a move on.
I also haven't sorted out the fuel rail. I don't know if I should get my gen 2 rail bored out or if there is a better option? I was told that a gen 3 rail won't bolt straight on, is that correct?
2010/06/15 21:35:30
dasic1
You did the fuse box the hard way. (I almost did too) The loom unplugs at the passenger side kick panel
2010/06/15 23:44:33
nuk1ear
gonna get some pics up man? i wanna see this HE setup and where the cooler is mounted/how etc :)
2010/06/16 08:44:27
dasic1
kick panel is under the dash to the side where your feet are (drivers side has the bonnet leaver) There is also to wires that run up the center brake light
In this photo you can see where I ran the wires and the old hole. This is behind the passenger seat.


The wires run through the cavity in the 1/4 panel to the boot, not in the bay. I didnt have to extend any of these wires.
The only wires that need extra length are the ones on the engine loom. But that will depend on where everything gets mounted.
I think it can be done without extending any wires but the fuse box will end up in the middle of the boot, I wanted it to the side

Im sure I posted this up somewhere before but I couldnt find it either
2010/06/16 13:29:30
robk
Hmmm, that actually looks quite difficult anyway, now I don't feel so bad.
I hate pulling apart the interior because it never goes back the same, and clips always break, etc. I won't have a choice when I install my head-unit, amp and sub, but once that's done I can leave it alone.
<< ..1516.. >> - Powered by APG vNext Trial
© 2025 APG vNext Trial Version 5.5

Use My Existing Forum Account

Use My Social Media Account