I have those in mine and my gearbox has done many kilometres and has never been reconditioned. As you can see in my videos, it shifts very well. I noticed a big difference once I had replaced the linkage parts.

Mrskylighter
What fluid are you running in your gearbox atm?

I'm not sure TBH. Whatever Gearbox Express put in there a few years ago. 
I may be able to improve the situation by changing the fluid, but it will only mask the problem until it gets even worse. 

Admin
I have those in mine and my gearbox has done a many kilometres and has never been reconditioned. As you can see in my videos, it shifts very well. I noticed a big difference once I had replaced the linkage parts.

That's good to hear. Yes I did notice how well yours shifts in your videos!

I forgot to say that I have a short shifter too

^They raise a good point. Try changing fluid & sort out the play. It can improve the situation greatly. Transmission is a "wear n tear" item in my books, so if you can prolong the life of yours, get your moneys worth out of it. You only stand to potentially lose the cost of the fluid really.
 
Try Caltex Easy Shift 75/90 GL4. If that doesn't work, then you can resort to an ATF like I did.

+1 for all three Delta V Kits. They improved mine a while back.
Do you spray lube the linkages & block each service & what do you use ?

Peter
+1 for all three Delta V Kits. They improved mine a while back.

That's good to know.
 

Peter
Do you spray lube the linkages & block each service & what do you use ?

MR2QIK
Try changing fluid & sort out the play. It can improve the situation greatly. Transmission is a "wear n tear" item in my books, so if you can prolong the life of yours, get your moneys worth out of it. You only stand to potentially lose the cost of the fluid really. Try Caltex Easy Shift 75/90 GL4. If that doesn't work, then you can resort to an ATF like I did.

These measures would only hide the shift crunching for a little while longer (maybe 6 months or so if I keep driving the car fairly often), but yes it's probably worth taking these simple steps so I can enjoy my current trasmission for as long as possible. In any case it's inevitable that I'll have to replace the synchros or buy a new transmission some time soon.

On another note, I added this under the car today:
 

 
The valve with the red tap will allow me to manually drain the oil catch can when I'm at the track, so it's really convenient (there is already a 'sight' on the side of the catch can so I can see when it needs draining). It only ever fills up significantly when I'm at the track, so it's better for me to drain it manually instead of plumbing a drain back to the sump. Also it will be good to see how much oil is going into the can, and what it looks like, before I drain it.

This is why we restricted oil flow to the head in my engine (i think Ian also did it to Pat's too) because 3S engines flood the top end when at high RPM (track days in your case) safe insurance for Toyota to have reliable engines when people do not service them properly i guess. 
 
Ian found this on his race engines where down Conrod straight you would fill the entire catch can!
 
Probably should have mentioned this to you when i saw the pictures on Facebook Rob, sorry.
 
 

Thanks for the info Trav, no wonder I was filling up my catch can at the track (my high boost level probably increases blow-by too). I'm still pleased to have a drain tap for the catch can anyway.