robk
I should replace the worm-gear hose clamps with T-bolt ones too, but I think the main problem is the alignment of the pipes rather than the clamps.
Another thing is my oil catch can. It sometimes fills up quite fast at the track, which is OK considering the boost level I'm running, but the problem is that I have to remove the whole catch can from the firewall just to drain it, which is slow and messy. To solve this problem/inconvenience, I'll either add a drain hose back to the sump (and ensure that I change the oil quite often), or I'll add a nipple/valve on the bottom of the catch with a drain hose so I can manually drain it by just loosening the valve.
On the first bit, t bolt clamps really aren't a great thing, they are too easy to over tighten and they crush pipework out of round. I personally use murray clamps, as they are the best option short of using wiggins style clamps from plazmaman/vibrant etc. i have had no issues with them up to about 2.5bar. But your right that pipe alignment is important, as is how much movement i pipe has. Some pipes are best to have a mount to secure them to either the engine or the body, providing the engine doesn'thave too much rock.
With the catch can, I don't know how big your can is firstly, but i would hope it is 2-2.5l. If you fit a drain back into the sump, make sure you have a check valve in the line, otherwise you get crankcase pressure blowing up the line, and it will spray oil everywhere out of the filter.
Although not a a quick or easy option, sometimes the best solution with breather setups is to setup a block breather. Put somewhere not in line with a rod, and with a screen in it, a block breather is good, as it releases crankcase pressure direct, instead of the crankcase pressure pushing up the oil drain passages to the head, which a. slows oil draining back to the sump and b. blows a lot more oil around the head.
But thats my 2 cents worth of free advice.