WIDEMR
What do you think of the racerx cam sensor on the engine mount? hows it been working, compared to the dizzy side one you had?
The RacerX cam sensor in the dizzy location was going well at first, but I soon realised that it was poorly designed, with oil leak problems and excessive wear due to the shaft design. When I emailed RacerX about the problem, they agreed that it was a flawed design, which is why they sent me their newer kit (for the engine mount on the other side) free of charge.
The new cam sensor kit on the engine mount is working perfectly now, but I was unlucky and had to overcome initial teething issues with it too. The kit comes with a cam reset disc with one small slot cut out of it, instead of a single tooth, and that disc mounts on the exhaust cam sprocket with a spacer in between. The hall effect cam sensor is aimed at the outer face of the disc, rather than the edge of it. The problem is that a tiny imperfection in the spacer will be amplified at the outer face of the disc, causing the air gap to vary in front of the sensor. In my case, it varied enough to cause problems. I solved the problem by modifying the cam reset disc (with a grinder) to have 1 tooth instead of 1 slot, and I made the tooth bigger to ensure that it would be reliably detected. Then, by having a tooth instead of a slot, I was able to adjust the air gap with the tooth in front of the sensor, and any deviation around the rest of the disc would be ignored by the sensor.
RacerX said that they use a slot instead of a tooth simply because it's easier to manufacture, which is what I expected.
*EDIT* Here are photos of the new cam sensor kit, before and after I modified the disc to have 1 big tooth instead of 1 small slot.
Before:
After:
WIDEMR
Also im sure i read you were having issues with the 60-2 wheel, was this the crank? what issues were you having.
Yes the crank. At about 6500+ RPM, my ECU wasn't getting reliable pulses from the RacerX 60-2 crank hall effect sensor. Basically the teeth on the RacerX 60-2 crank trigger are very small (in degrees), so after the signal was filtered by the ECU some of the teeth/pulses would disappear altogether. This could've been fixed with a firmware update, but instead I chose to design my own 36-1 trigger wheel and had it laser cut locally. I had fun doing that anyway, and I was able to design it with teeth of a suitable width etc, and be totally confident of solving the problem straight away. Also, 36 teeth is plenty, 60 is more than enough.