if you going to try and go to the drags and want a good launch, maybe put some kind of a wheel speed input into the ecu and setup launch control. a stationary rev limit with some ignition retard will build boost quickly. at snowy mountains the car I drove could build 1.4bar in about 2.5seconds in a 2.2l 4 cylinder, but as we used the gearbox speed sensor, it failed on the launch and wouldn't disengage.

As a passenger on the track at Wakefield..................................     
First ever time at a racetrack.  First turbo 2 I've ever been and it was..........................................
WAAAHHHOOOO.  LOL, AAAARRRRGGGGG, LOL.  WAAAHHHOOOOO....................... Then very wobbly legs when I got out...................... lol

Congrats on the new power figure from the E85! For some reason I was expecting to see 350KW at 29-30psi. What you ended up with is nuts tho. 
 
Will the current turbo ever be replaced with something larger? 

hahaha Shaz!!
 

Mrskylighter
Congrats on the new power figure from the E85! For some reason I was expecting to see 350KW at 29-30psi. What you ended up with is nuts tho.

*EDIT*: Continue reading this thread and you will see the results of a more recent and improved dyno tune!
 

Mrskylighter
Will the current turbo ever be replaced with something larger?

You never know (I mean, you know what I'm like haha), but I highly doubt it. I absolutely love it!

Yep once you go above 300 acceleration is radical. Felt a little too out of control for my liking in my old SW20.

robk

Mrskylighter
Will the current turbo ever be replaced with something larger?

You never know, but I highly doubt it. I absolutely love it!

Lol :)

robk
 
1) That downshift puts it in the powerband on full boost very quickly, and you basically have yourself a time warp / wheelspin switch.
 
2) Same as above but with the slightly reduced acceleration of 3rd gear instead of 2nd.
 
3) This is the situation where a big turbo will always let you down. It can take many seconds for the boost to come on. However, if you're on a long straight road and the lag doesn't matter, then the anticipation during those few seconds, and the rush of feeling the boost increasing from nothing all the way up to the maximum, is awesome in its own way.
 
4) I'll have to report back on that after I return to the drags some time, and hopefully manage a decent launch. I think even with a good launch there would still be a slight delay waiting for the boost. But, once you're on boost and shifting near the redline, you stay on boost for the remaining gear changes.
 
The first 2 scenarios are the most useful and most common...think overtaking.

Ok, that settles it - I'm definitely thinking hard about a GT3076 build for mine!
 

I've discovered something interesting and annoying. It turns out that my right handbrake cable has totally seized somewhere within the outer sheath, in a partially engaged position, and was causing the handbrake to drag on my right wheel. The interesting thing is...I think it was like that during my E85 tune!
 
I spent a few hours under the car on the weekend to figure this out. With the handbrake off, I could see that the lever on the left caliper was fine, but the lever on the right caliper was noticeably in a semi-engaged position and difficult to move. I removed the right handbrake cable from the car so I can replace it, and when I disconnected it from the caliper the lever immediately disengaged the rest of the way (ie. the lever and spring on the caliper is fine).
I've already ordered a new cable from Toyota, and I ordered the left one too. I figured I may as well replace both.
 
I don't know how much a dragging handbrake would influence power on the dyno, but I do wonder if this explains why we initially needed to add a surprising amount of ignition timing just to make the same power on E85 as on 98 fuel. That had been puzzling me because I've heard that E85 is supposed to make the same power as 98 fuel with the same ignition advance (I don't know for sure if that's true though).
 
I guess I now have even more of a reason to go back to the dyno yet again! As I said earlier, I think I also want to add more timing at low RPM as I should have done in the first place.

After spending the whole night squirming around under my car, I've installed new handbrake cables on both sides, and DeltaV sway bar reinforcement plates up front. Both jobs would have been so much easier with a hoist!
 
On another note, my current RacerX cam sensor setup which replaces the dizzy, has been mechanically troublesome and prone to leaking oil, and I've realised why they came up with a totally different and simpler new design. After discussing it with RacerX, they are going to send me their newer kit for the cost of shipping only.
 
Also, I decided to order a 4 bar MAP sensor because it's a bad idea to be running 28-29psi of boost when that's the maximum reading for a 3 bar MAP sensor. I'm mainly doing this so I have some margin to prevent the sensor reading from maxing-out, but it will also be hard to resist bumping up the boost by another few psi when I go back to the dyno I don't want to be too greedy though.

I installed the 4 bar MAP sensor, and the new RacerX cam sensor kit.
I had to cut a hole in the cam gear cover to make room for the cam sensor/disc. The hall effect sensor bracket attaches to the 2 bolts on top of the right engine mount, and the cam reset disc is fitted to the exhaust cam gear.
I still have to wire up the sensor, and install the metal plug and o-ring which is included in the kit to fill the hole where the distributor was removed.
 
*EDIT* photo removed, see this post instead:
http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/FindPost/109130