good choice. ive pushed gtx3076 turbos on evos to about 330awkw on pump e85 a few times, so it should be more than enough.
I also have issue with precision turbos being oil only, its asking for trouble with the lack of airflow around the turbo on an mr2.

Pretty much the "optimum" 2L 3S setup IMO. All top quality gear & all complimenting each other well. Good job. Suggest they tinker with the cam timing while they're at it so as to leave no stone unturned.

Here it is, GTX3076R with 0.82 A/R turbine housing:
 

 

 

 
*EDIT*: It proved to be too difficult to modify the dump pipe, so the turbine housing has been changed to a 4 bolt instead, but still 0.82 A/R.

**** my build in 95% the same as yours, although I started 1 year ago and its complete apart from a LSD drive shaft,
 
I should really put up a build thread after 4 years of crazy mods 
 
I also run a GTX3076r but with .63 housing, I too debated for ages on what housing would be the right size.
 
At the start I was keen on the 0.82, then when I read what 4G63's were pushing with the GTX3071r and GTX3076r's on the .63 housings, that was when I started to do more research.
 
I found on ATS racings website that Kevin cracked 417rwkw on a GT3040 with .63 turbine, I mean maybe take a few killer wasps off that figure due to a dyno in the US being different with sea level and the aggressive tuning but that is a very impressive figure for such a small turbine and 8500rpm redline. 
 
In the end I wanted good streetable power throughout the whole rev range so I went for the .63 but I look forward to your car being finished and mine, it would be great to compare the two turbos on such similar builds.
 

Hey Rob,
With your brakes, did you have to change your master cylinder to accommodate for the larger disks/calipers.  If you did, what did you use?

I'm not sure what master cylinder I have sorry. I've never changed it myself.
The previous owner fitted a Wilwood brake kit on the front (which I changed to the DeltaV Lexus/Nissan combo), and he upgraded the rear brakes too, so he may have changed the master cylinder at the time. I have no idea, but I'll try to find out. 

I was back at MRC today, and I got some photos of my new engine bay 99% complete.
I don't have a final power figure yet, but I'll post the dyno graphs as soon as it's all done.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
As you can see they had to make a heat shield to cover up the beautiful Full Race exhaust manifold :-(
Apparently the manifold was starting to glow red hot after some power runs on the dyno, and things nearby in the engine bay were almost starting to melt, so the heat shield is certainly required! Maybe the black ceramic coating on the manifold causes too much radiant heat or something.

uncoated manifolds will glow red after a few power runs, as will ceramic coated manifolds, its really common on a dyno from the lack of airflow, even on front engined cars. Just so you know, if it gets hot enough, the ceramic coat will flake off.
Even cast standard manifolds will glow.

But if surrounding parts are starting to melt, they really should be doing something to encourage airflow in the front of the engine bay.

Yeah I know that it's totally normal for an exhaust manifold to glow red when pushing the engine hard.
Additional airflow in the engine bay would help as you said. I imagine that the situation would improve on the street compared to on the dyno. I could install a pair of engine lid fans, but I've never liked the idea of exposing the engine to even more water during heavy rain.
Anyway it doesn't matter, I've got a heat shield now so it's all good.