Hey guys,
 
Im getting ready to drop some saved cash and finally do my turbo upgrade.
 
As the car sits it is pretty much stock.
It has a 6 puck unsprung clutch
Blitz EBC
BC coil overs
17" simmons
 
I have a Racer X v-band exhaust manifold with a tial gt3071r v-band housing, and waste gate and downpipe and required oil and coolant fittings.
I have a GT3071R turbo
and i have about $3400 of car spending budget.
 
Im not going to be touching the bottom end just now, and power wise i dont know what i want. Given the money im spending
im hoping <350hp
 
My plan is this:

• Install metal head gasket and apr studs ~$300?? (not sure yet)
• do timing belt ~$200 in parts?? ( should i do water pump/oil pump at same time??)
• Racer X side mount inter cooler ~$700 with shipping
• MSPNP EMS (from ats) ~ $1000 with shipping
• Fuel Pump (un sure heard to many problems and best to stick with OEM supra??)
• Cam shafts ~$650 (GSC from ATS racing?)
• Racer X Intake Manifold (to help improve spool)?

 
Am i on the right track?
I also dont have the luxury to take my car offline for more than like a fortnight so im thinking of doing the EMS after all the engine work has been done and if possible just drive using the blitz ebc to controll boost?
Then do/tune EMS with injectors in time.
 
 
 
Im going to need help finding all the little bits and pieces needed to do timing belt and head gasket.
 
Cheers
Josh
 

ps this is my turbo/exhaust kit on racer x mock motor

 

HG - since you have Gen3, no need to change gasket. Stocker is metal & tough. Factory head bolts should be ok for now.

Is your timing belt due for replacement & how many kms since it was done? Only change it if due (or over).

Intercooler, I'd go for a trunk mount or W2A. A sidemount won't do that turbo justice. Will surely rob power.

EMS - Power FC or Haltech IMO.

Fuel pump, do you already have a Supra pump installed? If so, leave it. If not, go for one of the newer Walbro etc units.

Cams, GSC is fine. 264 or 272.

Intake manifold - definitely do it. More beneficial by way of even flow/safety rather than spool. Standard manifold has uneven flow which can be dangerous or require compensation to be safe.

Got a pic of your Gen3? Be cool to it with the Simmonds.

Thanks for the reply.
I was hoping you weren't going to suggest W2A, I really don't feel like going down that path. I feel its something else that could go wrong. If there was an easy drop in kit where i don't loose my spare wheel i would be interested (please show me).
Other wise i might just stick to the SMIC and maybe some water injection when i decide to give it more hell than the occasional 3/4th gear pull once a day.
 
So you really think its not worth changing the HG? i was told it was a good idea for running a bigger turbo.
And I was thinking of just doing the belt at the same time since i would have the head off. That means more savings to get the intake manifold.
 
So Cams are good. I will order them this week.
 
I would like to know why you would recommend the haltec? (cant seem to find a Power FC)?
 
Cheers
 

Here is a picture. She is a little lower and faded since this photo.

The stock Gen3 HG is tough as nails. Hard to blow it as its multi layer steel already, but if you were going to change your studs, I'd probably change it anyway.
 
Intercooling is difficult on an MR2. A sidemount heat soaks far too quickly. I used to run one and dyno'd 250rwkw but intake temps were well in excess of 65 deg at that time, so its not efficient enough at getting rid of the heat.
 
W2A is def the best for stable temps and power output, but like you, I didn't want to have to go down the path of another water system with radiator etc. I've currently got a top mount, but if you don't need the boot, a boot mount is the best non W2A option imo.
 
Haltech is good because its so adative. E85 is a possiblility with it, and its smart enough to realise small changes to your system, without needing a full retune. Power FC is trusted and tried, but an older unit now, however reliable and everyone manages good power out of them.
 
If you need any discussing my build which is similar to what you're aiming for, or help sourcing parts, gimme a pm/ email!

I think ill jump on this too... 
 
with the water to air intercooler setup, you wont have to lose your spare tyre, just dont run the lines through there, as really there isnt really a need to anyway.
I went from side mount to w/a and the difference is huge, on the dyno as dylmrt said, intake temps are crazy, i think mine were around the 60-70 degree mark. W/a has kept it around the 35 degree mark on consequetive dyno pulls.
 
As for ecu, people do use the apexi and haltech, but I can't go past the adaptronic as the features and even the support behind the units is second to none, and have got my car running 10x better then a haltech.
 
as for cams, i have a set of 274 cams in my gen 2 engine, and have been very happy with it thus far.
 
Alex

dylmrt
W2A is def the best for stable temps and power output, but like you, I didn't want to have to go down the path of another water system with radiator etc. I've currently got a top mount, but if you don't need the boot, a boot mount is the best non W2A option imo.

 
What do you mean by a top mount? Is it living in the engine bay or in your boot?
 
Im not keen on cutting a hole in my boot, im not sure how that will look when i go to get it all engineered?
RacerX has a W2A kit but the water tank is put in the spare tyre well.
 
great.... now you guys got me looking at W2A... haha.
 
 

Not much can really fail with a W2A system. There's really no sacrifice (certainly not with the frunk). Mine's been doing perfectly for the past few years. No affect on coolant temps either with the heat exchanger up front. The only potential fail item is the water pump (most use bosch) & they're actually marine grade & I've yet to see one die on a W2A setup (a few of us are running similar setups). Many have tried fancy shrouds, water sprays etc etc for SMIC's, but the reality is, it's just too small & in a bad place (near the dump pipe). If you're in Sydney, I can put you in touch with someone to do the W2A cooler for you (they did mine & a few others too). If you go the RacerX route, you don't have to get a reservoir (I'm not running one - no probs).
 
I really wouldn't change the HG or head studs at this point, nor the timing belt if it isn't due/suspect. It is a good idea with Gen2's as they don't have a MLS gasket from factory, but you're fortunate & have a Gen3.
 
As for the ECU, try Dylan or poke around the forums/ebay for a Power FC. They're probably the cheapest proven option (if not a bit dated), but combined with a handcontroller, they're quite a good ecu. Great for driveability, installation (plug n play), price, monitoring (via HC), just not flexible like the newer breed (no flex sensor potential, knock response etc etc). If not going that route, I simply recommend Haltech because the best tuners I know take preference to it. Hitman (arguably best MR2 tuner out there) works for Haltech. Guys like GAS & PowerTune all love using them. In fairness, you wouldn't go wrong with a Vipec, Adaptronic, Motec or Autronic as an alternative, but I just take preference to Haltech. STAY AWAY FROM WOLF!
 
Btw, nice SW20! I think I remember that one when it was up for sale in ACT.

Thats the top mount A2A:

But definitely W2A works the best. This top mount heaksoaks even worse than a side mount on a dyno, however on the street it performs much better than the sidemount (but still not as good as a W2A).

Well with this advice i might just order the W2A kit+intake manifold from RacerX, Cams and Fuel pump. And drive it on the factory computer. Then around Christmas get a Haltech and injectors and do the tuning then.