If I had one square foot of workshop that looked as clean as yours, I would be in a different world!
As usual, looks fantastic as per usual. Hopefully we will be able to have a more detailed inspection at MTC2016.
 
I think the camera and alarm are a great idea. I almost caused a 200kph crash at WTAC in 2010 as I could not see anything. Changing back to glass helped no end. It saved us many times at W300 2014 but a alarm would be of great benefit for a variety of events. 6 hour regularity would not be an issue as your car will be in the top 10% and its not as cut and thrust as the 300km enduro's. I would recommend having the screen where the mirror would be located or closer to your immediate line of sight. Having a screen below the dash is not ideal. Don't forget 'glare'. I had a lot of trouble with this when I ran a camera.
 
 
 
 

Few little updates,
 
Got my aluminium rear window and few other small brackets anodized, picked them up yesterday, lucky i did, i was just in time, they had been packaged up, shipping label attached and courier arranged, which is fine except the shipping label was NOT to me, instead one of the main V8 Supercar teams that shares a similar name!
 
Heres the rear window, looks good, scotchbrited then anodized black, too bad im about to cover it all up.

 
Inside cabin shot of the rear window. I have now bonded it to the car and checked for leaks, dont want engine vapor, fire or water to get in.

 
I will be running sloped engine lid, not the factory flat style, so the rear window will essentially be in the engine bay under the engine lid. To help stop some cabin heat i covered the aluminium window with DEI reflect a gold. The firewall will also have some, altho this is much thicker and may not need much. I spend alot of time putting the gold sheet on, starting one end and slowly working my way along, making sure to not get air air bubbles or dust and it still came out i think rather crap! The gold sheet was very very wrinkly, so even on a dead flat new surface it still came out looking like there air bubbles all over it, everywhere. Hopefully will settle itself out, or i may need some heat on it?

 
A little bracket i made also anodized.

 
You can see it on the steering column here. My Krontec steering wheel quick release has a 22pin connector in it, so taking the wheel on and off theres no wiring to disconnect (which i need to take it off to hop in and out of the car due to the cage) however from the column end of the hub i need to get the wiring out, so i have this curly cord.

 
Another little bracket. Under front bonnet on chassis rail, for bumper (lights) and radiator fans (if i run fans)

 

 
Davies Craig EWP80 electric water pump, will be running for my W2A system. (only 1 pump, 2nd is spare)

 
Disconnected the factory connector, covered in Raychem DR25 and HFT5000 and fitted Deutsch Autosport connectors and Raychem molded boots.

Your car is so boss

Sure is, because Boss's dont work.

What are you proposing for W2A system layout, size etc Brendan?

WIDEMR
Sure is, because Boss's dont work.

Lol that's not what I meant! 😊

Lol, nice one brendo.

Pat, still not 100% on anything yet, but will be a pretty typical setup. I will be sending my radiator back to PWR to get a few modifications and will get PWR to make a heat exchanger and mount it up to the radiator. Exact details on heat exchanger are still being worked out. Intercooler also not yet decided, i have a cheap frozen boost one but may upgrade to a spearco or custom. Wont be running a reservoir, except a small 300/500ml or so header tank / bleed fill point mounted above the intercooler, this will be the highest point. Main hoses will be -12 Brown & Miller convoluted Teflon w/ polymer braid and Brown & Miller hose ends.
 
I take most things i read on the net or hear from people regarding there w2a with a grain of salt, everyone says conflicting information, everyone has different setups. I will be collecting alot of data, so for the w2a i will be logging w2a water temp, before turbo intake air temp, after turbo intake air temp, after intercooler intake air temp plus all the other engine parameters, so i can get my own data and do my own R&D.

May i suggest running a manifold pressure sensor before the intercooler as well. Good for measuring pressure drop/efficiency. I run a pre cooler one as a boost pressure sensor, which is used as my pressure source for boost control, as i was running into surge with the efr turbo when the source was manifold pressure. Its 50rpm laggier, but the turbo is a lot happier.

I also was able to measure pressure drop through the intercooler core. I watched the presure drop go from 3kpa@12psi to about 18kpa@18psi.

In a previous config i ran a delco air temp sensor pre and post cooler, but dont have the pre cooler sensor anymore, but on a power run i was seeing 130-150c. I dont know if you have a rated air temp sensor in mind, or whether you just plan on running a k type thermocouple.

In regards to what we spoke about last week, ill shoot you a pm.

Yeah you mentioned to me a while ago about a pre i/c MAP sensor, so i have added this to my list, will be interesting to log.
 
Most of my sensors are Bosch Motorsports, however the air temp sensors are a Bosch OEM exposed element NTC thermistor item, so fairly cheap and easy to obtain, i then pot a fly lead and fit an autosport connector, much cheaper that way. It is a -40 to +150c, max constant of +130c, so should handle heat and read up to 150, if i find i go over 150 then can look at another option, i have some other Bosch sensors that are liquid or air, used alot on air, reads up to +300c however they have a slower response time, which of coarse isnt an issue for most liquid applications. 
 
But yeah, i want to keep, if i can, all 3 IAT sensors the same so they have the same range, same config, same response times ect, makes the data much more easy to trust, so guess cant run a thermocouple as the main IAT, so see how things go. 150c? mmm thats pretty warm ey.