Boost is via a 9 position switch into a AV on the dash, so yeah still dash to ECU
 
Indicators was ok, these are controlled by momentary push buttons on the wheel, however id like put some logic so if i have the left indicators on and press the right indicator button, the left turns off and right comes on, that gets complicated, but yeah dont need hazards (rain light is pretty much the im going slow, limping, stalled light) and wipers were easy as i only have 1 wire motor (and 1 wiper blade with different linkage) so i dont have autopark ect, not a road car and dont plan on racing in the rain. Right now i have 1 button for toggle on/off if i want to leave them on if it is raining a bit and a momentary button to just hold and give it a little wipe, let go so it stops in the middle or passenger side, altho these are on the keypad, hard to see with helmet on, if i knew it was going to be wet i may reprogram a button on the wheel to be for wipers.
 
Very true, ive used a big chunk out of 200 already, i hope its enough, but i just simplified a few things and thats saved me a bit. Also can chomp through user conditions on the dash, may have to get advanced functions to unlock more (plus gain some advanced maths) but also need eventually pro logging and one day maybe T2, were does it end?
 
Hoping to get someone to help setup all the CAN templates ect, just working out exactly what i would like to be sent from here to there

Looking good B,
 
I think I can see a small light at the end of a 'not so long' tunnel.
 

Nathan, yeah your right on the 200 operations going quick, over half taken already, playing around a bit, some are essential to operations and some are used just because i can, things like;
 
Function created for Keypad button 'pump fuel out' LED 2 (yellow) 
 
PDM.Function.Fuel Pump OPs Fault=
  PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Status.Fault=true
or
  PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.06 Fuel Pump Main.Current <=5.0A, true for 2.00s
or
  PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.17 Fuel Pump Lift 1.Current <=0.6A, true for 2.00s
or
  PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Status.Active=true, true for 2.00s
  and PDM.Output.11 Fuel Pump Lift 2.Current <=0.6A, true for 2.00s
 
So yellow LED on keypad for that 1 button will show if either 3 outputs are in fault OR if any 3 outputs are on but theres less then normal current draw, ie device not connected, this usually wont bring up fault.
 
Obviously i can setup same as alarm in dash or switch element on a page or all pages ect

Its fun to see what you can pull off with the pdm manager in those "because i can" ideas. Thankfully i have only had fairly basic applications where  i have used pdm/can pad ie. starter solenoid/3 fuel pumps/ignition/ecu/dash/brake lights/wipers/cooling fan.
 
I had stuff setup where pushing the button for a fuel pump would disable it, holding it would run it (allowing you to prime it after fuel system servicing, so you don' kill main pumps)
 
Just make sure your not afraid to save your file periodically when doing it with different names ie.initmr2setupv1, v2 etc, and run the validation regularily, so you know it is all sound.
 
Im pretty jealous of your bench rig (we have a few,but always end up stealing bits off them like comms cables or connector shells when someone forgot to put something in an order.)
 
The best one is when you take over powering up ecus etc, wire it up, and then realise the comms come through the utc when the ecu is powered up (done it twice now.)
 
Also make sure you output a data stream from the pdm, and set up logging in the dash, so you can log how much current everything is pulling etc when the car is up and running. If you have limits set too low, or too close to normal operating current, you may be in for a bit of "mystery problem" when the car is up and running. A good example of this was a fiesta rally car we had in. It was direct injection, and would sometimes die. Turned out the low pressure pump values were setup too low, and when it had been run for a while, the current draw from the pump would go up due to heat (which is fine), but as the fuel system is dead headed into the high pressure mechanical pump, occasionally when you would get off the throttle or hit the rev limiter, the pressure would spike, loading up the pump and tripping the output.

Yep, all channels from PDM are being logged. There is quite a bit of bandwith being used on CAN1, so the VIM which will have some high speed inputs (ie suspension pots at 1,000hz) and other things are on CAN2, CAN3 is for other non Motec devices and CAN4 is spare for now.
 
Getting a few little things sorted out. Got some things cut up then all bits welded up on the aluminium front 'intrusion' beam. 
 
Boxed in the sides of the tow strap mount (had to be lower than the main bar) so it dosent twist, left a hole so i can get a spanner in there to the k-nut. 
 
I have to weigh my old steel bar and steel P tow hook, but i believe the weight difference is over 5kg. Not that i need to save alot of weight from the front tho.
 
This afternoon i dropped it off at the powder coaters, getting media blasted, washed then powder coated.
 

 

 

 
 
Few little brackets for some Autosport connectors i had CNC cut then folded. I need to get a few other things cut up then i will clean these up, scotchbrite them then have them anodized.
 

 
 
Sorting out the rear of the car now, been going through some parts i bought, mmm 2 years ago? more?
New hub carriers, hubs, bearings, dust seals, c clips, speed sensors ect.
 
Pressed out the factory studs from the hub, have some ARP slightly extended ones to go in, with speed nose ends.
 

 
Will be sorting out rear lower control arms, tie rods etc soon, all rose jointed.
 
Put a new whiteline 20mm rear sway bar in, not sure if i will run the 20mm, stock 18mm, none, or down the track may put in a bar with adjustable blade end links, easy to do on the rear, no clearance issues really for the bar.
 
I noticed a while ago that one of the front wheels looked buckled, while its in the air and you rotate it, looking front on it really wobbles, as in OD of rim looks like it drifts in and out by almost 1 inch!
Swapped wheels left to right, nope not the wheel or tyre, still doing it on the same side, so thought was wheel bearing? or the hub ring, set up a dial gauge on the hub face, to see if it was the hub, then i noticed one of the wheel studs was longer, had a look, had a much longer knurl and the rim wasnt seating flat on the hub.
I was furious, assuming someone (a workshop)  had snapped a stud and replaced it, but no shop had worked on the car for a long time, so i would have been driving around like this for months when it was a road car and at the last track day, (well i did crash then, could i blame this?) but didnt make sense, it wobbles that bad, how could i not have known? or was it dont after i last drove it, only place was roll cage place, must have been them, then realised  ahhhh, i dont have any rotors on the car, so the rotor hat may have had large enough holes to allow it to sit flush and then due to the rotor hat thickness rim would be flush too, so all good, could have been done 10 years before i got the car.
 
As i only 10 minutes before pressed out all the factory studs from the brand new hubs for the rears, i had 10 brand new studs sitting there, so i pressed out that wrong stud and pressed in a new one, all good. I will be changing the front anyway, but the now fixed front hub will be a spare.

Wow. Your car is too good to race

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Wow. Your car is too good to race

I'd be too scared of scratching it!

Oh dont worry there are alot of scratches, dints, cracks, rust ect. Thats why the car has so many stickers on it (if they were all sponsors, the car would be finished by now!)

Pressed in the ARP wheel studs then pressed in the new wheel bearing into the hub carrier, then the new hub into the carrier.
 

 

 

Your tools are too good to use