I have a JDM 1990 N/A SW20 G-Ltd owned since 1995. When I converted to the new tail lenses... all I had to do was use my existing wiring for the tail light globes. I did need to lengthen the reversing light wires...they were too short to go in the new reverse light position.
 
Putting the original bayonets (globe holders) into the new globe light receptacles was tricky. They required a bit more pressure than normal to push them in. Reading a previous article confirmed that this was normal. They are a tight fit but they DO go in (push and turn to lock) No modification was needed.
 
My lights have always been quad B4 and after conversion. All lights on for park and all light up with brakes on. No modification needed during the conversion.
 
 

The ADM GT (at least mine) uses the inner lights as brakes only and the outer as tails only.

Update on the car, the clutch issue was solved with a brand new master cylinder. It was very strange that it failed just after 12 months. I had to re-bleed the system using my syringe method (vac method just wouldn't work) and adjust the push rod under the pedal so it wasn't coming up so far and now it's perfect. I have about 4cm of pedal free play before it engages the clutch so thats fine. 
 
I adjusted the hand brake but found out this only changes the actual lever instead of the force applied (because its a self adjusting system etc). Still rolls back on very steep hills but it's nothing that I worry about. 
 
After every drive I find myself topping up the coolant by about 100mL or so, sometimes more sometimes less. I'd bleed the system again its just I no longer have a tap at the top of the radiator and just a bleed screw there. One day it might stop but I've been told loosing that much coolant is an Sdub thing, still quite annoying haha. 
 
I've been overdue for a new steering wheel for a long time now as my current one is beyond 'worn' and had bits of leather separating from the vinyl underneath. While my mate was over in Japan he picked up this jem for me :


 

 

 
I'll install it later when I have the appropriate boss kit.

Nice wheel. I would suggest the coolant consumption 'being a sdub thing' is not correct.

Either you're burning it, leaking it or its not bled properly. My money is on the later.

If you are running full silicon coolant hoses you can have some water loss through the silicone hoses and so dropping your coolant level.
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osYhprAEktw
 
I have noticed I do loose some coolant from my cooling system since changing to silicone hoses. 

I might have to look into installing a tap then :/ I would have thought that after bleeding the heater system and trying to bleed the front radiator as well as using the bucket thing on the rear coolant pipe, the system would be fully bled. Even still a week of topping it up after every drive should have sorted out most of the air bubbles. 
 
I do run silicone hoses but given the information in that video I'd be loosing more than 5 gallons a year so I'm not sure if it can be all attributed to water permeation. 

I can't imagine so. I ran silicone for a number of years and ditched them due to a poor seal. If I did a pressure test up to ~16psi I would get weaps. This was never really enough for top ups but I was concerned about drawing in air post shut down.

You've had nothing but problems with this car.. 
 
Honestly, there's nothing wrong with Silicon hoses as long as they're tight and don't overheat. 
 
Not sure if anyone else has done it, but when i bled my system, as advised by my old boss who did a quite a few of these, i had both level, bled as best as i could, then followed by the rear end up in the air, rest it for a little then started and let it get warm, then let it cool, went back to ground repeated, then went back in the air but only the front, and bled again, and the went back on the ground.  Did take a few hours, but i've never had an issue with overheating. Could be a waste of time, but i'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus, two hours here could save 12 hours somewhere else. 

It has been a troublemaker I admit that much, hopefully the work that's been done to it is enough to keep it reliable for some time. The hoses haven't been a problem and I'd rather them than the 27 year old hoses that would have been on it. 
 
The car never overheats and temp gauge is always dead normal so there's no real immediate problem but I'll have to look into doing another bleed in the next couple of weeks. 

Hey guys bit of an update. So as previously mentioned I was having issues where I was topping up the coolant substantially after each drive despite there not being any leaks that I could see. I ended up replacing my silly safety lever radiator cap with a Toyota OEM one and it seems to have resolved 99% of the issue. I still need to top up about 10mL each drive but that's minor and probably due to a hairline crack in the neck that I have to replace. Shame the replacement neck is $200 but it'll get done. 

 
The next issue is the dreadful wind noise that I get around the mirror and windows at over 100kph. There was a link on the forum that said this is attributed to the holes in the side mirrors behind the tweeter so I took both sides off and taped up some holes and added some draft stopper and it's really helped the noise, I would strongly reccomend it for anyone with similar issues.

 
Also purchased a Fuel Cut Defender to cure the boost cut issues but before I install it, I want to see if I can get someone with a Dyno to install it and set it at a safe limit seeing as I know absolutely nothing about it.
 
Going to the All Japan Day tomorrow in Newcastle but due to illness I've only been able to wash car no polish or wax :( I'll save that for Toyotafest :D