If you could list which parts you already have (obviously all head components) and which parts you still need to order (still need to order the fueling gear etc?) it'd help with us giving you advice.
There are pros and cons to any way you go with the crankshaft and it all depends on what you intend on doing. Running 5S big end sizes gives you are a larger bearing surface and also more overlap on the big end and main journals (ie, stronger) however you end up with increased bearing speed. Whether or not this is a problem is arguable and will depend on the intend RPM usage and oil quality amongst other things. A benefit of the 3S journal size (at least when I looked) was better bearing selection. You only got access to budget/basic bearing materials in 5SFE sizing (ie, no ACL race spec, high spec clevite etc) This may have changed however in the last year or so, not sure.
I like the billet brian crower crank for a number of reasons
a) its 4340 chromoly, ie, stronger then the alloy used in the standard forged crankshaft
b) the flywheel PCD is 3SGTE, no butchering flywheels to suit 5SFE crankshaft
c) the flywheel bolt holes are M12 vs M10 of the 5SFE bolts. Means your using stronger bolts (and can use the ARP 3SGTE bolts). Whether or not this is a weakness is also arguable. I haven't heard of any flywheels seperating themselves whilst using 5SFE bolts, though, its not something I'd leave to chance.
Regarding pistons, I highly recommend the CP pistons. They work fine with 1mm OS valves. Pauter and Carillo rods are much more expensive then Eagles and I suspect that Eagles would work fine for your application. Your not looking at >700hp. They are also lighter then either of the other two listed. I am using custom Carillo rods but for a number of reasons that do not apply to you.
Your going a little marginal on your pump. I'd probably look at something a bit bigger, maybe the walbro 400lph pump and some 1000cc injectors. Fuel is not something you want to be running lean on. Get a standard gen 3 gasket (or aftermarket for gen 3) and machine the block to suit, imho this would be the best option.
Regarding headstuds, standard ARP's would probably be fine for you, unless your looking at pushing over 30psi of boost. If those, I'd suggest you bypass the L19 studs and go straight to the custom age 625 studs. L19 have some downsides in the way of hydrogen embrittlement problems. Okay for race teams that replace them all the time, not so great for regular joe. Regarding the crankshaft bearings, if you are grinding to 3S size then just get the standard 3S size bearing and have the crankshaft machinist grind to whatever bearing clearance you want. Get 0.25 over on the main journals and have crankshaft ground for correct clearance.
To make the most from your setup you'll likely also want to upgrade from the greddy side mount cooler.