This will be my engine build thread, a 5sgte, and I'll be asking for everyones input a fair bit. It can be the engine we all built together haha.I've rebuild plenty of engines before, but always just standard stuff. All this high powered and custom stuff is pretty new. Give me any bike engine and I could build a weapon though. I do plenty of research on the net, but I'm horrible at making decissions when spending money. Being the uni student that I am all my parts have been collected over the years through various deals for the best price I can afford. And believe me, I've been collecting parts for a long time haha.And now I'm up to buying new parts to build the bottom end.
Ok so this is what I've got. Pics will come in the next few days
I have a 98+ 5sfe block and crank. (coming in the next week or 2, swapped a celica for it haha)At the moment the idea is to not run oil squirters but when I get it I'll have a look and see my options there.
The head:
Gen 3 head with port and polish
4-angle valve job
1mm oversize valves
HKS HD valve springs
264/272 HKS cams
HKS adjustable cam gears

Intake/Turbo/Exhaust
Garrett GT3076R with 0.82 A/R T3 exhaust housing
Tial wastegate
Synapse Synchronic BOV
Greddy Sidemount Intercooler
Apexi N1 Nuremburg Exhaust
 
Electronics
Haltech E8 ECU
Haltech Boost Control Module
Haltech wideband 02 sensor
3 bar external map sensor
LS1 4-coil direct ignition
 
Transmission
Late model double syncro box
Possible TRD LSD?? (I wonder this because everything I've read says there is a shaft you can see if you look in the drive shaft holes on a normal lsd, mine looks like a washer with a hole in the centre, I read this means TRD? Who knows, I'll get a pic up tomorrow)
Exedy HD ceramic clutch
Fidanza lightweight flywheel
 
Fuel
Walbro 255lph pump
HKS top feed rail
HKS 720cc injectors
Malpassi 1:1.7 adjustable fuel pressure regulator
 
The head I bought second hand already built like that. I drove the car it was in and it was great. Ran well.I'm just fitting the fuel pump at the moment, have to get a broken bolt out of my tunnel to get the tank in.
 
Things I need:
Pistons
Conrods
Bearings
Head Gasket
Turbo manifold
other gaskets
head studs
 
Now I want to build an indestructable motor, one I'll never have to open up again (well I hope) and can do anything with. So I dont mind spending money on good parts. And you might find it funny a uni student saying this but money isn't really a problem, why?, I'm doing 2 days a week work at an engineering place and they said any extra days/work they wont pay me, they'll just tally it up and buy me parts :) this works well for me, lets me buy parts, just means the better the parts I want the more I have to work haha. I've been working for a while now and I've got enough saved up with them to order my bottom end bits and I'll then save up again to buy a nice manifold.
So what do I get?
Piston options:
CP 5sgte from ebay,
JE 5sgte off ebay
or 5sgte from ATS Racing, they advertise moved pin position and larger relief for larger valves. I have no idea if my 1mm oversized valves will work with the cp's.I'm sort of leaning towards the ATS as they dont seem that much more expensive but I'd love peoples input, even if there's other options.
 
Conrod options: I'll get the crank ground to 3S size to give more options for rods. And Totenkopf once wrote about the bearing speeds and the 3s ones will produce less shear
Eagle rodsor it seems the best are Pauterand Carrillo
So what is the best?
 
Bearings
So probably ACL but what size,Standard or 0.001 oversize for extra oil?Does it effect the longetivity of the engine much? Do the pro's outway the cons in peoples experience?
 
Head Gasket,Probable ATS 5sgte one so I dont have to play around modifying perfectly good gaskets or blocks
 
Head studsWas just going to go ARP but read on the ATS site about L19 Head studs, more expensive but I can always do some extra hours at work lol.
 
Turbo manifold
I'll keep working and saving and probably get a 6boost one, Australian and I can get them to put temp sensors in each runner.Probably a bottom mount as I have a TRD brace in the cupboard and as far as I know they dont work with top mounts.
 
Sorry for such a long opener with no pics, I'll fill this thing up with pics as I go. Hope this build doesn't take to long, the wiring of the ecu is the scariest part for me.
If anyones ever down Warrnambool way and wants to lend a hand you're more than welcome and the fridge is always full of drink.
Thanks for reading

My last MR2 had 1mm OS valves with CP stroker pistons. The cutouts must have been suitable.
Eagle rods are lighter and cheaper than the others but I believe Pauter are heavier and stronger etc. My 2.2L engine made 316RWKW with Eagles without any dramas.

I have the CP pistons in mine and they clear 1mm oversized valves with HKS 272 cams with the bearings the main will probablyend up at 10 thou over and the big ends can be std 3s size as there being machine down from a largersize anyway. I can reply better when I'm not on my phone

gorrilla inds/dylmrt can supply a good package deal for all those parts. i recommend using them, esp as they are forum sponsors etc.
 
just get the  5sgte specific pistons from CP, they've been used in many 5sgte builds and are fine.
 
you could also get a complete stroker package from BC/brian crower.
 
IIRC totenkopf may have some new billet 5s cranks left. these already have main journals to suit std 3s big ends and also the PCD of the crak to suit a 3s flywheel.
 

any particular reason for HKS cams? TBH they're not the cheapest and you don't get the best designed cams IMHO.
 
i had a set of HKS 272 9.4mm lift, they had pretty basic design, same ramp rate for opening and closing. they also don't have much lift. i'd look at kelfords personally(cheaper than HKS for starters), they have the nicest range with gen3 hi lift varieties.
 
if you want to have JAP name branded stuff, then get TODA cams. 

LOL, gonna make me sound like a HKS hater, but pretty much srub all the HKS stuff from your list. it's just over paying for stuff that isn't ness better.
 
get ID750 inj's.
racerX (or even ask totenkopf to make another) top feed rail fuel rail kit.
BC make valve springs with Ti retainers.
STD arp will be fine, i think theres a new "custom age" variety which is cheaper than L19
use STD gen3 HG imho. i've not been impressed with ATS stuff i've seen first hand.
 
 

The reason behind the HKS stuff is I got the head already built in a really good deal, so most of it cost me nothing. So it will do for now, cams and injectors are easy to change later when I have a full time job and money to throw around, so they'll stay for a while.
 
I read the gen 3 head gasket doesn't allow the water passages to flow correctly and requires modification. 
They make the ATS pistons sound like they're indestructible with some HD forging and other rubbish. I would have thought the ATS stuff would have just been made by CP or someone, and the HG by another known brand like cometic or something. Seems like CP is the way to go then now that I know they'll be fine with my valves and cams,
 
Billet crank is definitely an option, I'll try and get onto him.
 
And I meant 0.001 undersized for the bearings. Is it worth it? Meant to flow more oil but make a noisier engine.

On phone so can't respond well :) If you want to do it right, you'll need to drill the block & use a Gen3 3S gasket. The ATS cross motor HG blocks some key areas on a Gen3 head 5SGTE. I cross referenced it with Tristan when I was building my motor.

Additionally, I'd get a newer Haltech. The E8 is ok but has a few known bugs. Upgrade to last firmware if you do stick with E8 though.

dwyer125

The reason behind the HKS stuff is I got the head already built in a really good deal, so most of it cost me nothing. So it will do for now, cams and injectors are easy to change later when I have a full time job and money to throw around, so they'll stay for a while.

I read the gen 3 head gasket doesn't allow the water passages to flow correctly and requires modification. 
They make the ATS pistons sound like they're indestructible with some HD forging and other rubbish. I would have thought the ATS stuff would have just been made by CP or someone, and the HG by another known brand like cometic or something. Seems like CP is the way to go then now that I know they'll be fine with my valves and cams,

Billet crank is definitely an option, I'll try and get onto him.

And I meant 0.001 undersized for the bearings. Is it worth it? Meant to flow more oil but make a noisier engine.

 
ah, fair enough if you already have it and got it for a good price, it's still good stuff, just i wouldn't pay the premium if needing to buy new etc.
 
there was discussion on the ATS gasket, yes they get cometic to make it for them, but as far as i could acertain, they designed it to compensate for the weakness of 3s blocks, yet the 5s block doesnt have that weakness...go figure.
 
i don't like the idea of machining undersize for bearings, your making a street motor, not for race. so altho it may flow better for a race engine, it will prob wearout components quicker in a street motor, IE all the cold startups when there isn't enough oil flow yet will have increased wear on bearings etc. (something you dont need to worry about for a race only car)

I agree with Jay about the E8, from direct experience its sh*te. You will run out of outputs, drop out on the dyno, lose its map and end up costing you more as it sits on the dyno. Get a platinum 1000 if you can afford it and avoid plug and play kits unless its made by someone proven