Hey guys, got a few questions here, all engine and driveline related.
 
Some of them may be totally unheard of, or at least uncommon, so help where you can. :)
 
Firstly, I currently have a 91 SW20 with the Bathurst 3S-GE chucked in, all the loom, ECU, and whatnot out of a wrecked one. Still running the standard everything, including open dif and S54 box.
 
I plan on rebuilding it in the next year or so (whenever the engine gives out. It's done 220,000k's and I'm not exactly easy on it), and will be slapping a turbo on it in the process. I understand that the rods and pistons aren't strong enough to handle boost, so I'll be going forged. Any recommendations for a good well-known brand that will keep the compression ratio around the 10.5:1 mark? I've looked up some rods on eBay (for research purposes), which claimed to increase it to 12.4:1 or so. That's not really ideal if I boost it on top. Any advice on brand and where I could get them from would be great!
 
Next, I'll need to get a different gearbox, as the S54 is brittle as and I'll destroy gears the moment too much torque is put through it. A turbo fits the bill, so it has to go.
I've heard from a friend, that a friend of HIS in NZ is going to be attempting to fit an E56 from the ST202 3S-GE Celica to his MR2. I'm still considering the plausibility of this, as I'm not sure how well or otherwise the bellhousing will fit, and it's only word of mouth that the N/A driveshafts will fit the box.
The main reason I don't just want to E153 is because of the considerable amount of added weight they have, something like 25kg's extra weight in the box and shafts alone. They're great boxes that can handle tons of power, but I'm not aiming for huge figures, so keeping it light is ideal.
The question here is whether anyone in Aus knows anything about fitting the E56 to an SW 3S-GE and modifications involved. I expect I'll be doing a bit of fabrication to make it work either way. I'll probably get a dummy box from a wrecker to compare to the S54 I've got laying around already.
 
And finally, Obviously with roughly twice the original power running through this (aiming for ~200rwKw), I'll need to upgrade to a good LSD. What brands and types do people suggest? I've never had an LSD before, and have only driven cars with one a few times. I'm leaning towards a 1.5-way, but am still open to ideas.
 
Thanks for your time guys!

Cheaper to buy 3sgte complete. A turbo has a steel crank. I have a complete gen II motor 200rwkw with lest than 2000 kms on it. I spent $8000.00 on rebuild. I have 92 sw20 with original 99000 kms on with bent chassis rail which the motor is from.
Pm if want more info.

I'd have to disagree on it being cheaper, considering all parts included I expect it'd probably end up costing ~$4,000 or so, and I'll be doing the work myself. And the N/A crank will be perfectly capable of handling the increased power. The limiting factor of the N/A's is the gearbox and rods, both of which will be changed.
This is also for research purposes, since I'm not at a point financially where I can start buying new engines, and I'd rather buy the whole car and wreck it, since spares are always nice (again, money being the problem here).
Also, if I remember correctly, the engine in question had quite the knock sensor issue, which I'd prefer to not deal with.
Also the Gen 3 N/A from base is an excellent starting point, and I'd rather not go back to a Gen 2 again, even if it means a bit more work retrofitting a different gearbox from a FWD car.
 
Thanks for the offer, but unless you'd be willing to accept ~$3k for the whole car, it wouldn't be worth it to me. Paid 2 for a crashed Bathurst with a mint motor and it didn't even pay itself off.
 

You will find out very quickly that building a motor is very expensive, and will cost you alot. I have had 2 friends now that started off with "it wont cost more than 5" and easily doubled that.
By the time you get a turbo, manifold, new clutch, intercooler, block work, it will add up
Cheaper to buy an already built motor

I have to agree with Eric on this one Joe.
I suppose it all depends who your getting your information from.
I definitely would be shopping around for a good rear clip.

Knock sensor all fix, just had a faulty one. The motor is blue printed balanced, it had special oil feed setup for racing. This car is clean and crisp with it power delivery. It is still running. And a na crank is not safe for higher boosted motors. As I put a brand new steel one from japan in the motor. This motor is bullet proof. I,m not giving it away. And its a late gen II it has gen III brakes etc. Even the flywheel pressure plate is balanced. It has new Garrett turbo, intercooler extractors and exhaust system. There is more best to call me for more info on it.

If you're set on keeping the chassis you have, I agree with what most others have posted above.
 
It would be much more economical to buy a 3SGTE + gearbox and swap out the NA that in rather than turbo'ing a 3S-GE.
 
Just the most fundamental parts alone that are missing from an NA set up that you would have to purchase (Turbo, Intercooler, turbo exhaust manifold, ECU) are going to cost you in the region of $2k, which you could get a complete 3SGTE engine for.