Don't worry about replacing it yet.

Open both sides fold the smaller board back and inspect the other capacitors.

Clean the board with isopropil(?) Alcohol but I used nail polish remover to get rid of the black ****.

Put back in car. If no idle problems then you have your issue. I'd say you've got a few more with larger black marks on board.


Once you have identified it's the issue then get them replaced. It's fairly easy but can pay someone also.

W34PN
Don't worry about replacing it yet.

Open both sides fold the smaller board back and inspect the other capacitors.

Clean the board with isopropil(?) Alcohol but I used nail polish remover to get rid of the black ****.

Put back in car. If no idle problems then you have your issue. I'd say you've got a few more with larger black marks on board.


Once you have identified it's the issue then get them replaced. It's fairly easy but can pay someone also.

My idle problems have been fixed since I replaced my fauly O2 sensor. Now its just the stalling when it gets warm.

That's exactly what the car I have does. It wouldn't start at first until I cleaned the board. Now when the ecu heats up from engine temps it stalls. I still have no changed capacitors but have identified that as the problem by cleaning the board.

Alternatively you could disconnect the ecu from the car firewall. Run a ground to its body and see if your problem persists when hot. Not sure if will work but potentially a option.

I just googled MR2 C810 and bingo.
If you search also for the ECU caps in the MR2, there are hits which list the dozen or so.
These can be ordered from Element14, or RS or.... for a few bucks. Then take the board to some electronics guy in your area and ask him to replace all the electrolytics. He will clean the boards and make any other observations.
Google will have everything you need.

Anyone with suspected ECU capacitor problems should check out: (Especially the last page)
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=138518&mpage=8

Reddtarga
Anyone with suspected ECU capacitor problems should check out: (Especially the last page)
https://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=138518&mpage=8

 Thanks ReddTarga, I have a known good ECU coming for testing. If all goes well Ill try and contact Michael from that thread. Unfortunately all his websites are gone now, so he might be out of the game.

Okay new ECU is in (not new but known working). Car is a lot smoother on cold start, hasnt stalled yet!!! (YET). Only thing I noticed is that I'm only getting 7PSI now, whereas before I was getting 10PSI? Would my old ECU been causing some over fuelling or something? From what I read on MR2OC is that Gen2 wastegate PSI should be 7 or so (not sure how accurate that is)

The bleed system (TVSV) which enables the 3sgte to boost beyond the wastegate spring pressure (7 psi) is turned on by the ECU. Commonly, not boosting properly is not the ECU, as other things can lose boost pressure, but since all you did was swap the ECUs, then I would put the old one back, just to see if the boost changes. This other ECU which has been supplied, was that car boosting ok ? You may end up just getting your old ECU recapped.

The ECU was known to working correctly when it was installed into the other vehicle. It also makes boost fine - its just less than the old ECU. Also I ant find anyone to do the recapping?

Any electronics repair guy can do it. Like a hifi repairman, someone who repairs microwaves or tv's, doesn't have to be auto electrician. 
 As for the borrowed ECU, if it used to control the other car's TVSV correctly, and your original ECU used to control your TVSV to boost >7psi, then we have something else strange going on.