Here is a custom fabricated exhaust manifold heat shield that might work for you. Save you making one or using a stock gen 2 one. Would just need to coat it in your preferred finish.
 
https://www.tcsmotorsports.com/products/tcs-heat-shield
 
 

Nick: Thanks for the  "TCS Gen2 3SGTE Heat Shield link"
 
 
Removing the rear cross member from my rolling shell was very difficult.  The four bolts had frozen solid. Could not budge them using my 1/2"drive with the longest bar.  Sprayed them as best I could with WD40 and let them soak but had my doubts that I got much penetrating fluid where it needed to be. Tried again an hour later and still no luck. I came to the conclusion that the original engine might have been disassembled in the shell probably removing the cylinder head and just about anything else to enable the block to be lifted out the top of the engine bay.
 
There was no way I would attempt putting my new engine and gearbox in from the top. Probably impossible with the gearbox attached so back to getting these four cross member bolts free.  Extended my socket bar to double the length and with all my strength finally got them loose and out.
I was very relieved to find the threads on these four bolts where still in good condition. A good wire brushing to remove surface rust and a wash in kero brought them up good.  Will be using silver goop anti-seize on these four bolts when they go back in.
 
 
Engine ready to go in.
 
 
 
I gave it a lot thought about how I was going to lift the SW20 shell without damaging the body and decided to pull it up with two chain blocks connected to the left and right engine mounts.  I had the two long bolts that normally go through the engine mounts available but hooking a chain block hook under one of these bolts would have the tendency to possibly bend the bolt and then distort the engine mount itself on the shell. To overcome this from happening I made up some solid round 1 inch dia spacers the width of the factory engine mounts, a hole through the middle to except the long bolts. Fit the original nut to the long engine mount bolt and tighten up with the new spacer in place and now we have very little chance of bending anything.
 
 
 
This engine balancer made it very easy to keep the engine/trans at the right angle for relocation back on its mounts.
The two spacers I used to reinforce the engine mounts while lifting the SW20 shell high enough to get the engine/trans in place for installation.
 

 
 
Lifting SW20 shell.

Thank you for sharing the build. I looking forward to seeing the car develop over the coming months.

Good work Richard, looks like you are making good progress. I have done this same job a couple of times on my own and its all doable. I always seem to have trouble with the driver side engine mount, very fiddly but all works out eventually. 
 
Thats interesting approach with the hose from the thermostat housing to the turbo, havent seen that done before.

Hey Richard.  I missed this until now.
 
Any updates?

 
Engine is in and running. Just finished installing Border A2A Intercooler
 and was very impressed with it's ability to to cool the boosted air.

Before fitting the Border (no intercooler) 10 PSI of boost was producing 68 degC of air
temperature.
Now with Border and the same 10 PSI the air temp does not increase, infact it actually
drops a deg. Big test will be when I up the boost to some where around 25 PSI.

Only just started tuning the new engine so have got along way to go.

If anyone is interested I will put some collected data/logs up.
 
 

Just installed a 2 DIN Android stereo head unit and discovered the electric antenna does not work. Traced the wiring back to RAD & CIG Fuse 15 Amp.  Fuse was fine but no 12 Volts present at this fuse holder.
 
Then I noticed this white empty socket below the fuses. 
 
 
 
Is this normal for a JDM 92 GT Hardtop?  The missing fuse in this picture is the RAD & CIG Fuse which along with other voltages feeds the electric antenna.

Hard to tell 100% without taking off the plastic trim but on my car it feels like there is a similar long rectangular socket with nothing plugged in in that same spot. Mine's a JDM 90 GT hardtop.

cruise control,theft deterrent ecu and the rh rear abs sensor are all on that plug.
if your car has or had the premium sound system with the 2 amps on the back left hand side then the antenna feed at the dash doesnt usually work,ive got mine to work by jumping the green/black wire to the pink/blue at the antenna plug in the boot

Thank you twomr2's your post was very helpful.  Explains the the empty socket and with regards "jumping the green/black wire to the pink/blue at the antenna plug" 
Under the dash I joined Pin1 pink/blue and Pin7 Black/red along with the blue Ant wire from the Andriod Head unit.
Antenna now works fine.
 
Thanks again