hey with ur cams, i run 288 deg crow cams, and a smalport bottom end, i made 82rwkw's and still making power on the limiter.. the are not dialed in either, just on stock timing settings...

with my exhuast, i looked at hks and trust, alot of money, i got a fully custom exhuast, and i tell u the sound is unreal, if, if u wanna listen?? check this, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2XCJZcgkgs

^^ that sounds awesome!
I'd be stoked if mine souned like that. its very 4age! I had another adub for a while which sounded very similar. But that was a tired old blue top 4age, unknown extractors, and a shot muffler. It loved to rev, and i swear sounded and went better than my 4age ever has. :(
I reckon a big problem for my adub noise wise is even the bloody muffler! The Fujitsubo is verry quiet, but also happens to be my absolute favourite cat-back for the Adub. (i love how they look hanging low on the rear-end). i might take it off for a while depending on how the new exhaust bits make it sound.
..im tempted to buy a 5zigen Border 304, which I've heard are quite noisy. but we'll see...

anywhey, updates:
pics from the other day. same stuff, different location. :)





aww.. rad. :P

put new link-pins on again...
i think i fried the ones that came with the coilovers, but im not sure. wanted to try these anyway, and they're only a couple bucks.
they're a Universal 10mm ball-joint ball-joint style with a threaded centre. easy to saw down to whatever size, and a good option. they're skinny, so i'll keep an eye on them.. but look to be fine.


but more importantly, new goodies...! :D
the 264deg poncams which arrived a few weeks back. :)


liiiiittle optimistic there with the whole brake upgrade thing! if i get 1hp out of these bad-boys I'll be happy! :P

finally made a choice with the extractors too! :)

probably obvious, but i went for the Greddy/Trust TR NA. :)
few $$ more than the Aussie ones, but not massively dear, and look nice. AW11 specific, so fitting wont be a headache. I think they ended up costing $700-$800 or so.


interesting how the oxygen sensor is only on two runners. i suppose theres not much room to do it any other way when it bolts up to the standard exhaust?

allso.. new glasses! super JDM y0 Raybrigs. :P

had wanted a set for a while, but never got around to it! hopefully an improvement for night-time vision. :)

I like how its gone from using the lense to break up the light, to the more modern style of clear lense with the detailed headlight bucket doing the work.
comparison.

the headlight trims had been looking scummy for quite some time; so i polished them up before putting the new lights in. totally worth it for the small effort. :)


and done! :)


all clean.. :)

cant wait to drive it tonight. [:I]


As for the other stuff, that will be going on early next week. the car cracked 370,000km just the other day, so is booked it for a service. Hopefully at the same time i can organize getting the last centre-section of the exhaust (and cat) replaced with a much better flowing setup, but if not, ill take it to an exhaust shop in the coming weeks. hope to get a nice Hi-flow cat to get rid of my vintage unit.. :)

got more big plans underway for 380,000km. :) cant wait..! :D

righto, got this all back and going now. :)
overall, performance-wise its still no rocketship! feels what a healthy 4age should do. revs willingly and strong all the way to redline; which is nicer than it used to, where under load it would start to drop off power at 6500+. very nice. :)
sound wise, its almost identical. only downside is now hear everything - its like 4 coke cans full of rice! <_<. can hear it at certain points in the rev-range, whether accelerating or spinning down. At least its quiet enough to not be too intrusive, and its sortof funny. :)
the cams are also somewhat lumpy at idle, which when fully warmed and idling at 800-1000rpm, its a distinct puff-puff-puff-puff. can also feel it in the car, which I'll get used to. :)
main issue with it all at the moment, is when popping it into neutral from higher revs, which I've always done when driving in traffic. When fully warm, it just doesn't catch itself on the way down, and just cuts out! cant get it to replicate well enough, so ill have to wait and see.. but hopefully a slightly higher hot idle will sort it out. :)

only other recent change was the headlights, which are very nice. nice and bright, with a very sharp cutoff. look great at night too, with both the low and highbeams. temped to go HID's in this now - especially since they wont do the whole spastic-glowing-blinding lens thing HID's do in old headlights. they're not dear, so i might grab some for a try sometime.

and now, another pic.



:)

I don't recall, and didn't have time to look back through the entire thread, lol, but you're still using somewhat stock piston compression aren't you? If that is the case then, yes, the new cams will be somewhat of an improvement, but higher compression pistions would be a big help. Maybe something you can plan on down the road.

If you still have the idle set for around 8-900 rpm, then I wouldn't be too surprised to hear that it has that issue you mentioned when coming all the way down off rev. Probably just the effect of the larger cams, and maybe also a bit of dirt here and there throughout parts of the vacuum system. Things like cams will really make even slightly dirty vacuum ports, etc. a bit more obvious. I would just turn up the idle for now. Also make sure your tps is set dead on, as it may be a bit more sensitive to that now. Bigger cams will just tend to magnify any small issues.

Great job though, and keep up the good work! Car still looks awsome.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Fab4mr2

I don't recall, and didn't have time to look back through the entire thread, lol, but you're still using somewhat stock piston compression aren't you? If that is the case then, yes, the new cams will be somewhat of an improvement, but higher compression pistions would be a big help. Maybe something you can plan on down the road.

If you still have the idle set for around 8-900 rpm, then I wouldn't be too surprised to hear that it has that issue you mentioned when coming all the way down off rev. Probably just the effect of the larger cams, and maybe also a bit of dirt here and there throughout parts of the vacuum system. Things like cams will really make even slightly dirty vacuum ports, etc. a bit more obvious. I would just turn up the idle for now. Also make sure your tps is set dead on, as it may be a bit more sensitive to that now. Bigger cams will just tend to magnify any small issues.

Great job though, and keep up the good work! Car still looks awsome.

---

they're smallport (10.3:1 ?) pistons in it now. At the time i was just rebuilding to stock, so I'm lucky i went that route at all!
Was actually tempted to get some higher comp pistons, thinner headgasket etc, to go in the same time as the cams/extractors, but stumbled on a different direction. ;)

...managed to find an original HKS Supercharger kit for the 4AGE AW11! Rare as all fark, so just to ignore the condition and buy it.
Its haggard, but all there. its on its way from japan via sea (no hurry!) but need to get into it when its here. obviously plenty of parts need to be cleaned or reproduced, but hoping for the best as far as the supercharger goes, otherwise ill be trying to find somewhere that can be rebuilt!
Its made to work with stock 4age compression (9.4:1?) and run with no cooler (lol?), so its lucky i didnt creep into even higher comp territory!
Amped to get it on the car anyway. but i can see this project turning into a great expensive pain-in-the-ass.
couple pics of the kit:



and the most awesome part;

HKS 'SUPER CHARGER'
looks to nicely end up in the standard throttlebody position. ace setup. :P
will look fan-fkn-tastic when all cleaned up n detailed too. but we'll see..

random note, but at the same time I'm hoping to rebuild the standard gearbox and pop in an LSD (which im yet to buy). the LSD is dear, and itl be $$ to get it all done, but its going to need it eventually - and the coilovers lift wheels fkn everywhere.. <_< lawl.

Very nice find. Well, in that case, yeah, you wouldn't want your compression higher than it is, for sure. The HKS were designed to be used without an IC, but it would probably be a good idea to maybe think about using water injection, or some such other similar method to cool down the charge a bit.

Those lights look good, something I'll consider in the future for sure.
Did the HKS setup come with the hand controller for the F-Con?

nope, no hand controller.. (?)
Isn't necessary right? if its been setup for a 4age, it should be set-and-forget right?

the lights are def worth the purchase. much better than the standard units that's for sure.. :)


pics of what i did last weekend anyway;
basically, the couple month old Rays Duralumin wheel nuts had allready oxidized and looked poo pooty. bit dissapointing, as they're fairly dear, but i sort of suspect a wheel-cleaner i use.
pic...

..either way, i wanted some nicer newer ones. :P
bam. Project Kics Neo Chro R40 Revo's! without a doubt the stupidest and most expensive wheel nuts an idiot can buy!!!1! they have rotating seats ffs.. and end caps for... uhh... yyeah!

at the same time, ive been meaning to clean the back half of the wheels. these have done maybe 10,000km or so now, and a couple months of rain/hail/shine dailying. as far as keeping wheels overall clean goes, its best to keep onto it.
this is what they allready looked like:

enter my favourite somewhat gentle citrus cleaner, followed by prepsol for the annoying tar spots.. and bam:

good as new!
at the same-same time.. id never got around to putting all the decals on.

so on they went, and nuts sitting pretty for good measure...


and done! its all a bit of the same really!


and random;


done.

Nics job as always! Looks great.

Wouldn't worry about whatever hand controller, for the Fcon that was asked about, as I have never heard of one for the early models, and besides, the Fcon's and GCC's really are set and forget. The only sort of handy controllable feature I have seen for these before are optional long length cables that allow you to mount the GCC inside the cabin for easier tuning, but they're still not something you would fiddle with constantly while you're driving, lol, and afterall you can only change the afr, not timing.

The only thing to look out for is the eprom that has come in it. From my research it appears that there may have been as many as 3 different types that were made for these, such as stage 1, 2, and 3. Different sorts of upgrades would have been expected for each version. However, with the basic controls these have I would still think that one would be able to compensate for whatever eprom that comes with them by use of the individual Fcon adjustor, and the multiple GCC ones, and if necessary possibly different fuel injectors. So I don't see it as being much of an issue.

The GCC is the correct name for the hand controller thing i was referring to - in my haste to post i couldn't remember the name. Did it come with this?
It allows more flexibility with the air/fuel ratio. When I got my car from Japan the F-con + GCC were already in it, but the tune was terrible as it was running VERY rich and only getting 83rwkw. Not sure if this was due to poor tune in Japan, or the switch to our 95RON fuel (Tassie - what can i say). A quick re-adjustment saw 100rwkw and much smoother power delivery.