Thanks u so much ☺

Glad I saw this, I just replaced the master and slave cylinder on my '90 Turbo. ArtyMR2 is right you can just get a place to re-do the cylinder but for me it cost me $260 for a new master, slave and fluid. So I just got new stuff. 

Worst part for me was trying to reattach the slave to the gearbox, those 2 12mm bolts were just satanic. If you are going to replace it (which I suggest you do seeing as its not too expensive) bolt it up to the lines first then just spend 2 hours under the car trying to get the bolts into the box, don't bolt it to the box then try to hook up the lines. 

As for bleeding. I was recommended this orgasmic method of reverse bleeding. I tried the one man kits and pressurizing the master through the little hole in the lid but the feel of the peddle was stiffest after I did this. Because the bleed is at a low part in the system of an MR2 that makes it difficult to bleed but if you get a syringe from supercrap auto for mixing 2 stroke fuel it comes with a plastic pipe and you basically fill the syringe with fluid attach it to the bleed valve and push fluid back through the system till it starts to fill the master cylinder, doing so should push out any air bubbles. Took me 10min and would highly reccomend. 

Thanks matt that information helps alot awesome 😊

All good, it's much better to have this knowledge before getting under the car haha. Also it probably go's without saying but use a flare spanner for the clutch line bolts, nothing else. If you use an open ender and round it you'll cry for the 2 weeks it takes to order new lines in. 

Go do some yoga to get calm and flexible and best of luck!

Yes definitely get the proper 10 mm spanner for the clutch line flare nuts from somewhere like Repco. (see pic)
 
Also I would recommend checking out suction bleeding for easy bleeding of both clutch and brakes.
This allows one man bleeding, and there are a variety of kits available to do it. 
 

☺thanks

Matts_SW20

Worst part for me was trying to reattach the slave to the gearbox, those 2 12mm bolts were just satanic. If you are going to replace it (which I suggest you do seeing as its not too expensive) bolt it up to the lines first then just spend 2 hours under the car trying to get the bolts into the box, don't bolt it to the box then try to hook up the lines. 

Those 2 metal lines are a PITA, but I suppose 2 are needed for proper bleeding.
When I did this job, I fitted the lines but, but I backed off all 4 flare nuts a half or turn or so with the pipe clamp loose as well. 
I think doing that made it easier to fit the 2 slave mounting bolts.
Then I finally tightened the 4 flare nuts and the pipe clamp, but that needed to be done from both the bottom and the top of the engine bay. 
 
 

Good thinking re suction bleeding, must check them out, would be handy if no help around. Any recommendations?

Cheers

I've got this sidchrome unit which works well, I have a mate who's used an eBay one (~$35) with success.

Maybe even google diy vac bleeder for some other cheap n easy ideas.