I agree it still could be wiring - although I tend to think that one of the sensors, injectors or coils have died and are bridging causing the ECU to shut down. The tuner said that if he 'half' plugs the ecu in it powers up - so it sort of points to what I am thinking.... I think I need to get the car back to diagnose myself..
 
As for the misfire - He tells me that it's not like a dodgy plug or coil but more like an induced rev limiter as it happens at the same rpm, pull timing and the rpm that it happens lifts a few hundred. I tend to agree with dasic1 that the ecu may be having trouble 'keeping up' with the 24/1 tooth - It may need some filtering on both cam sensors and also the LS2 coils ...
 
I just hope it's not the ecu...
 
BTW: The ECU I ended up using was the Wolf V4X ... I'm thinking the Link G4 Atom would bave been a better choice!!

Looks awsome!
 
I like the PWR heat exchanger and oil cooler, did PWR do the oil cooler or did you add that on? Looks really neat.
I have a PWR radiator but hidden my a no name heat exchanger, mmm need a stencil and some red spray paint

For your misfire, i can't remember with the wolf ecu's, as we avoid the severely at work, but did the tuner log the ref and sync signals when the "misfire" occurs?? There can be multiple reasons for it, for starters how cold a heatrange sparkplug are you running and with what kind of gap?? It shouldn't be too much with the low comp, but check the burnback on the sparkplug, as when a sparkplug overheats, you get an ignition breakdown like described.
 
If possible with the wolf, adjust the filter levels for the cam/crank at the higher rpm ranges. Did you use shielded wire for your sensors??
 
What are you using for your cam/crank triggers?? is it a standard dizzy, standard crank angle sensor or do you have a trigger wheel on your balancer. If using the standard parts, pull them out and check the airgap for the pickups, and check for play in the shaft. Also, the wolf ecu's are notorious for wandering ignition timing, it pays to check at various rpms locking out the timing and checking with a timing light.
 
I would get the car back and diagnose the powering up process yourself. Start with just running the power and ground to the ecu, and try connecting to it with the software, if you don't have access to a laptop, you can bring a battery in and hook it up to your home computer. Check that the unit connects correctly etc.

I'm starting to wonder if the Wolf was the best choice! ... The Link G4 has excellent features on paper and from all accounts it really good to tune. Plug wise, I am using Bosch Iridiums - These have the 4 prongs. Being powered by LS2 coils. I am concerned with the low compression, and using a 1.3mm (51 thou)MLS i have calculated it is about factory .. I really might pull the head and drop to the smallest they do 0.7mm (27thou) . This should pull compression up to near 9:1..
Sensors are from the latest model AGZE (the DLI Version) - I fully rebuilt it and have checked it on a scope -iIt's not the issue... all wiring is shielded very well too.. I just think it's the Wolf! ... mainly because the RPM where the misfire occurs is exactly the same - pull a bit of timing and the RPM misfire point rises! (too much timing pulled as power drops) ..The unit has gone back to Melbourne for testing and maybe replacement.. If they don't replace I will make sure I let everyone know the full story! - I will bin it and replace with a Link! .. My biggest issue is the ECU was $1350 and I have burned nearly $2000 of dyno time!!! - If I replace and start again I will need to spend $1500 on the Link, All the connectors (to rewire properly) and another heap of time on the Dyno! - So this excercise is looking like turning out to be bloody expensive.... better be worth it!

Hi Keith,
 
Sorry to see you having so much trouble.  However it's the norm with these things that you go down a few bad alleys but you get there in the end with perserverence.
 
Looking good though!  Can't wait to see it in the flesh>
 
Cheers
Peter

It will be good!  -  Makes 105 RWHP @ 2000 rpm !!!!!!! Thats got to be competative ?

Link G4 FTW!
Good luck :)

What do you mean ????????? ELABORATE !!!!

FTW: "For The Win". 
You answered it yourself... 

ozhummer
I'm starting to wonder if the Wolf was the best choice! ... The Link G4 has excellent features on paper and from all accounts it really good to tune. 

They have a lot more features than a wolf. I have only worked with them in PnP applications, but even then they are reasonably flexible in their use.
They leave a touch to be desired in the diagnosis department, but that said, they are better than the wolf in this regard.
 
I would recommend that you check with your tuner as to how familar he is with the unit, and the tuning software, as a good ecu is only as good as the person tuning it.
 
We haven't had any major faults or issues with the G4, they are a huge leap forward from the old generation of link ecu's.
 
Not that it will be your issue, but the only gripe i have with the link units, is although you tune and adjust them in real time, unless you actually click store in the software, the changes are not stored in the ecu, which is the opposite to units like haltech, motec and power fc, which if you forget, can be a PITA.
 
77wkw @ 2000rpm is very very good, are you sure that is correct?? that is more power at those rev's than you usually see from a 2.6l STi or even a Skyline GTR.