Beams N/A engine but all the engine threads are there for the Turbo drive train upgrade

New axles with CV upgrade and new complete hubs/carrier/bearings and shields in

New fuel filter in and all the necessary lines connected , coolant/clutch lines etc. Also upgraded the 2 shifter lines to a pair of new turbo ones to match the E153.
**** a brick there are many parts to change to go to the E153 Turbo gear box. Admittedly dear when new but its well over $6,000 just for those parts.
OK need a few days off and get back to it but will take a few weeks break for work commitments.

Maybe in a horizontal position the 2 screw clamps with the thin bent metal that came with the Johnson water pump is adequate but i didnt think it would be enough in the verticle position, but hey thats me. Had the day off so i CNC'd my own holder. Used 2 off the shelf clamp and inserted into an rebated aluminium base. Off to the powder coaters

In place powder coated

So now back to putting all the connections to the engine. You can see I'm using the charcoal canister, don't know why there are those that delete it.
Also where the MAF normally resides it is very close to the coolant neck filler hence why i made the part to attach to the air box and the angled air line to the Idle control valve
  The WG and BOV totally out of sight


As you can see I'm using the OEM air box. I avoided the temptation to change it as l prefer the OEM look even if i have sacrificed some HP. The inter cooler is also totally out of sight and still have all the space b/w the engine and the car :)
 
Well thats about it for a couple of weeks as i have work commitments. I needed it at this stage as i have added the coolant and i can let it sit so as to burp out any air

So started again, Since i put the A/W intercooler water pump on the other side of the car i also reversed the water flow. As such the hoses to the solid aluminum pipes on the engine had to be reversed. It created a slight problem of interference. So i went to the guys who made my custom hoses and they let me look at several 100 hoses from their inventory. I found a hose with a bend that suited me and presto problem solved :)
Its important that the water into the Intercooler be on the side of the air out of the Intercooler. The hose out of the intercooler you can see a water temp sender to monitor water temp out of the intercooler

It looks organized with slack in every hose to allow for engine movement. In that section there are a lot of hoses 8 in total. Engine water out 2 by pass heater hoses 2 A/W hoses Fuel line in/out Oil catch can drain
You can also see the custom pedalstal of the OEM Oil Catch Can holder.
With the smaller of the 2 air box resonators in place the hoses disappear

Oil Catch Can cradle back on

Oil Catch Can back on with the custom vent lines

So for those that are not familiar these are the 2 mandrel bent aluminum pipes that are of the A/W Intercooler system. There are another 2 aluminum sections under the frunk also with rubber hoses connecting them all in the system.

With the hoses there were the custom ones in the front but with the other ones i just looked for off the shelf hoses that would suit and cut the sections that i needed. This way the ID of the hose is kept uniform as they are shaped

Well its all hooked up and as i said man it is so hard to bleed the system so i resorted again to the system i used the first time.
I put a valve on my garden hose , disconnected the A/W pipe after the 2 HE . Connected lenghts of hose and turned on the water tap into one hose with the other going into the bucket. Simultaneously i turned on the A/W water pump. This removed all the air to the intercooler and to the front in 5 seconds.. Then i removed the garden hose and allowed the pump to suck water from the bucket.
Once i was happy i pinched the those 2 long hoses and reconnected the A/W lines.
Once stabilized i added a bottle of Wetter Water.
I HATE BLEEDING !!!!!!!!!!!!

I will say this Johnson M90 sure does pack a punch. When i squeeze the hose out of the pump you can feel the pressure

The pump is running and you can see that the water level in the filler neck is stable.
Since the filler neck is the highest point the water wont overflow :)

Added some coolant to the overflow coolant bottle.
If i have time before the tune i do this if not during Christmas break is to wire it to the cluster.
Our MR2's until the end 1999 had a float oil level indicator in the pan. Since the Beams doesnt have one and the LED check light is in the dash , ill find that wire and connect it to the level sender in the Coolant bottle.

 Unlike my other car, Car audio Australasian Champion BMW i didnt want to go down the path of having it published.
 
Sure it was great that the BMW made front cover of many magazines both here and overseas especially America , i just dont want to go thru it again 

Looks fantastic....I'm just a bit envious.....I love the fact that it looks almost factory.
 
I just need to win the lotto :(