Next i cut the washer bottle front section where it bolts to the body.
This was needed as it closes the gap of another plastic panel and also provides a mounting point for the fender liner

Plastic panel in place, Clears the filler neck also you can see how the HE is away from the liner out line

My hoses have been made for the front main HE and should pick them up next week

Put the Supra TT coolant overflow bottle.

The overflow exits and the base of the car thru a grommet to the outside
And drilled the hole for the hose to come into the engine compartment. Added a grommet which in actual fact is a modified isolator.

Doing this mod allowed me to fully utilize the area where the OEM bottle is.
At least this will be easier to see the level than the OEM position
But since it has a float switch ill run the wires into the consol that way ill never have to pull the carpet back.

For those that don't remember well it was nearly 3 years ago :)
I had a jig made for a custom hose for the A/W inter cooler , well also the one for the vent on the engine. But since i changed the setup with the 2nd HE with fan and also a much bigger water pump i had the pipe modified to suit and the hose made.
Its actually 2 sections made as one which i will cut. It was cheaper this way as i get charged for only one.
Out of most of the things i have done this is on the top 5 of the list as it really makes the HE disappear and look OEM. Pipes hanging out and not angles to clear obstacles doesn't look clean IMO.

This is half of the pipe and test for fit. Looks OK

It took some time to get the right positions for the harness but i got there. Remember i have a few more obstacles.
Not why i added the 2 aluminum pipes for the A/W system , it makes for a cleaner look but more importantly allows me to feed all the hoses and the main branch of the harness into the boot

Again with the help of Akira i was able to get OEM harness tape again

Just put the top or the air box on so as to work out the length for the hose for the idle control valve and making sure all the wires clear everything and were routed to the correct spot. Its plenty busy behind the the diverter pipe but its too hard to get pictures

The divider will be removed for the engine installation as it is easier to clip the harness to the fuse box and then start adding everything else
Nearly complete , only have to add the Turbo clutch slave and she is ready to go in , in about a weeks time
 
Next i have to change the CV joins of my turbo axles for the CRW ones, Install the new shifter cables and assemble the Turbo hubs. This will be done thru the week.

For those who dont know this is the front layout.

Need to get a tab bigger belt for the SC.
All the pulleys are custom. This is because the SC has a 6 PK belt which in turn made all the alternator side out of alignment, hence new idlers , alternator pulley even the A/C pulley. If you look in the past threads you will see how i made them all.
So its ready to rock and roll :)  But wont be in for a tune till December because of work commitments.

Made a bracket for the Big Johnson water pump for the A/W system.
It has an aluminum base but the bracket is steel. Needed it so as i could go around the charcoal canister of the A/C system.
Also allows me to have a mounting point for the Ferrari air horn compressor.

Ready for a last over on the engine this week end as ill be putting it back in next week :)

Installed the Johnson CM90 water pump for the A/W intercooler.
In a verticle position it clears the pop up light and also the entry hose at the bottom will also clear the Inner guard liner :)

Also room for the Ferrari compressor

custom hose is a great fit

Engine all ready to go in :)  Next picture of the engine will be when its in

Just in case anyone ever would install a Rotrex SC this is the oil reservoir that comes with it and the magnetic inline filter that is used.
You can see to cool down the oil i use a Setrab oil cooler which has a Spal fan. Next to it is a smaller fan for the engine bay. However with both fans on there is ample cooling. It also helps that the oil reservoir is next to the fans.

Also running hoses but to get over the strut i go to solid lines then back to hose. On the solid line is the temperature probe. This all resides nicely tucked to the right of the car with it slightly being visible when the service panel is put back in place

Only issue was that the O2 sensor is too close for my liking to the axle bearing support so i will weld a new bung . This unfortunately caused me not to install the exhaust system. I can do it at home but on a hoist it would of been a sinch.
Oh well that was the only thing . Installation went flawlessly , everthing cleared. Adding the axles and new hubs was easy. Everything just glided in.
Here are some better shots
Engine ready to go in


While lowering the car to the engine i get in the boot and fed the engine harness into the opening of the boot , its so much easier this way

All clear about an inch in the lower section and 2 inches clear higher up
 

One of the best things with relocating the coolant overflow bottle to the boot is the extra room all around the BOV and WG. Easy to get the hand in there for adjustment :)

Also its very close to the electronic 4 way WG controller. Looped the air lines to allow for engine movement