It really looks brilliant.

MANDALAY 
Worked out how to bolt it down by welding some steel to the engine bracket for a solid mount. Double checked the clearance and looks OK 

Solid mounting the intercooler to the engine block is going to transmit vibration to it that could prove destructive over the long term.  Inline four cylinder engines (without balance shafts) exhibit a strong second order vibration in the direction of piston travel, and at high RPMs this can literally shake to bits anything solidly fixed to the engine.  It's likely to manifest in an intercooler as fatigue cracks that could cause small water leaks into the induction air or externally, or external induction air leaks.
 
The factory manifold bracing is there to prevent sympathetic vibration and eventual failure of the manifolds due to this - it might seem like overkill but is quite essential to reliability.
 
I used rubber cushioning grommets to mount my intercooler, similar to these:

 
I fabricated a solid bracket to mount the intercooler, then used the grommets to cushion its mounting to the lugs on the head casting:


 
The intercooler is quite free to rock forward and backwards with this setup, and the final support comes from the silicone hose to the throttle making it firm but flexible.  Most importantly, the destructive high frequency second order vibrations are damped.
 
If you intend to keep this setup for a while, it's probably a good idea to do something similar especially considering you're making custom end tanks for the intercooler.

^ Nice bracket
 
Thanks for your comments.
 
Yeh ive only done the starting point for the the bracket. There will be a base that will have 4 rubber isolators on the four corners. The water end tanks are billet so they have tapped threads for installation.
 



 

Everything with the new setup is bigger so i have to take a lot into consideration in the fitting.
The intercooler nearly double the size i have to move it to the left hence the relocation or the overflow coolant bottle relocated in the boot.
So also i had to machine another water end tank top so as the in/out lines wont interfere with the plenum runners.





Then i got a couple of fittings made

In keeping with space constrains i attacked the back of the Rotrex and cut down the length of the inlet, tapered the entry and put a thread on the out side



Then thanks to CRW I received my v-band flange kit.
These are great as they are male and female for locating center . What i did was use the aluminium female with the o-ring and i put a thread on it.



Screwed on

Now the male flange is stainless steel and just tacked for now to a very small radius 90 degree stainless pipe. The pipe is only 1 D this way the space taken by the pipe is reduced



Next the outlet of the Rotrex was also cut down and tapered and a recess made so as the elbow that is getting milled can be welded to it



V- band in place :)
This process basically has given me another 3 inches of space

So i had do a lot of measuring to make sure everything clears. 
I made a base plate for the intercooler with plate steal and welded it to the engine mount. It needs to be cleaned up a lot the powder coated.

The intercooler will sit on isolating rubbers ( as COGS pointed out ), the same ones as the overflow tank so as to allow movement and not vibrate itself. I'll use studs and lock nuts as i hate putting bolts into aluminium





This why i had to make a new water end tank so the outlet would clear the plenum runner



It was also great to see that the rod supports for the axle bearing all clears. One of them bolts to the Rotrex bracket as the OEM would bolt up to the alternator bracket



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Next will be the inlet pipe and the elbow out of the Rotrex should be done this week

Rolling back a few posts i was discussing the Idle Control Valve and how when i looked at the Caldina 2007 if was on the plenum and it received its air from the air box instead of being like the Beams Under the Throttle body getting its air in the inlet pipe.

As i said since the SC has positive pressure all the time this would cause the ECU to constantly move but more importantly NO Crud-ed up valve ! as the air would be clean as its after the filter from the air box.




Well the first stage was to buy the gasket of the Caldina ICV and match it up to the Beams one. Well the Toyota drawing was very accurate ! It is the same and just missing the centre rib as the air is coming from the air box instead of looping around the air intake pipe.

So thats great , now i will buy the Caldina ICV and modify the Beams TB so that opening is closed.

And then put a nipple to the blanking plate on the air box where i deleted the MAF when i switched to MAP.






FYI also if you ever open up the ICV do buy a new gasket before you do it as it will be surly be swollen when opened and will be a bitch to reassemble and most likely pinch and cause an air leak






 

With the bigger intercooler and the E153 I found the best way to get more space was to relocate the Coolant overflow bottle to the trunk rear quarter panel.

But damn there isnt any location spots to mount a bracket like ordinary sedans in the boot.

So there are 2 grommets that have screws going into them to hold down the rear light.

Well ill remove them then put a bolt thru them and then attach the bracket to it.
The other side of the bracket ill bolt it to an existing hole on the fold of the wheel well.

Molded it up in cardboard to see how it looks , now to make it out of some steel plate.





Then ill bracket the coolant bottle to that base bracket using some isolation rubber seats

Ain't cardboard cutouts great for mockups, lol.
Will the bottle fit under the boot carpet ok??