Good Morning.
I just purchased a MR2 Targa Top i was told it is 1991 but the registration papers say 1990.
As i do not know anything about this car can anyone help me with a few problems the brakes shudder and are not very good and between 100kmh to 140kmh the steering wheel shakes and vibrates badly.
Are there any on going problems with this model.
Thanks
Dave

dave
Good Morning.
I just purchased a MR2 Targa Top i was told it is 1991 but the registration papers say 1990.
As i do not know anything about this car can anyone help me with a few problems the brakes shudder and are not very good and between 100kmh to 140kmh the steering wheel shakes and vibrates badly.
Are there any on going problems with this model.
Thanks
Dave

Put up the chassis number and someone will be able to tell you the build date. Shudders between 100kph and 140kph? What track were you using to find that out?

I had a similar thing with my rego/build date.  I was told it was a 91, the rego papers said 91.  Not long after I got it, I'd gone to buy something & was asked "is it early 91 or late 91" because apparently that made a difference.  When I had a look & found the build plate, it was actually August 90.  I remember one website not even having 90 as an available option. (I think one of the CTP websites).

Dave, there are a number of possible causes.  Wheel balance, suspension play, warped rotors, etc., etc.,
Where are you located?  How mechanically inclined are you?
There are plenty of knowledgeable people here ready and willing to help out - Welcome Aboard!

G'day Dave, and welcome to the MR2 community.
 
Steering wheel shake at constant speed:
Maybe first of all have the wheels properly balanced, as well as checking the front wheel bearings, ball joints, and track rod ends for any play/slack.
 
If you have aftermarket wheels, they may need concentric hub rings to center the wheels properly. Tight fitting metal ones are best.
When fitting mag wheels, to ensure even wheel clamping the wheel nuts should only be tightened using the so called ‘star’ pattern, first in a couple of passes, then finally tightening with an accurate torque wrench. (I use 80 ft/lbs) 
 
Hub runout: 
Assuming all the above items have been taken care of and you still have steering wheel shake, the next thing to do would be to check the front hubs for excessive runout that may have happened after a front end collision or a wheel hitting the curb at some stage. That could cause the hub/rotor/wheel rotating assembly to be out of balance.  
 
Steering wheel shake that only happens during braking is probably caused by unevenly worn rotors.
 
 

Welcome Dave, responses above are correct.
Given you have just bought the car and dont know its maintenance history, bring it to a good tyre shop who can check wheel balance, alignment etc. Its not like you have bought a corolla, these are a performance car and owners often 'play' with them, often with negative effects. 
 
This is also worth a read http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=70521&high=oversteer
 

+1 for a read of http://www.mr2australia.com/mr2play/tm.aspx?m=70521&high=oversteer
Very important info for people new to MR2's.
 

Thankyou everyone for replying and for your advice with the wheels now balanced correct tyre pressures and a wheel alignment there are no shakes at all it runs beautiful.I had another problem high idling it now idles at the correct revs i have no idea if this changed because of the car being used everyday now or dare i say it the hot weather.This car has 298 thousand on the clock i bought it because of its pristine condition inside and out it starts and runs well but is down on horsepower is an engine rebuild expensive and is it a job i can do myself 

High idle:
Did you disconnect the battery?
If so, the ECU looses it's settings.
When you reconnect it, I find on my car the idle speed will be high, but it corrects itself after a few km when the CPU 're-learns' the settings.

Welcome to the forum. 
It's a pretty straight forward job to recondition it yourself.
Is it NA or Turbo? How do you know it lacks power?
Do a proper hot compression check and post the figures.
Check ignition timing as described in BGB.
At that mileage it's very likely just plain worn but you never know.
Maybe someone reconditioned it already and it will respond to some
new ignition components etc.
As to expense. No not really too bad for parts costs.
Do some shopping around before you purchase though.
Some parts are best to stick to genuine Toyota.
There are sources outside Toyota Dealerships though.
Whatever you do don't put it in to a Stealership.
They have probably never seen one let alone know anything about them.