More tinkering.
 
Roughed out the intake ports, just need to tidy it all up now with the dremel.

 
Had to chop some clearance out of the supercharger mount.

 
Plenty of room to access for the bolts on the manifold. Same from the top once the fuel rail is removed.

 
It's all fits, but is still tight.

 
Time to test fit it in the engine bay

 
Supercharger fits with a lot more room.

 
Pulley clears with 40-50mm now

 
Outlet pipe clears with a good 30-40mm of space, I could possible even remake it as a 2.5" outlet

 
Looking at options on setting up the W2A

 
Intercooler outlet to intake manifold has a real nasty S bend to fit.

 
However, this might work. Pipes line up really nicely with minimal bends. Even leaves enough space for the battery to stay in the factory spot.

 
Quick belt test fit.

 
Till next time...

Playing with some other stuff over the weekend.
 
I picked up a dirty cheap M90 supercharger from a Ford Thunderbird which is in much nicer condition then the M90 from the L67 Commodore I picked up around xmas. It's got better mounting points, better ports and is a more compact unit. So I decided to play around with some potential fitments for the supercharger in the engine bay.
 
Mount it standing upright like the factory TRD unit. However not a lot of space to fit an sizable intercooler between the outlet and the intake.

 
Next up I tested it with the longer drive snout from the L67 M90 (TB one is just too short for this position).
There is plenty of space to build a laminova intercooler in the valley of the motor, however due to the position of the pulley directly above the engine mount, it will require a couple of idler and tensioner pullies.

 
Or it could even be mounted like this (factory Thunderbird orientation), this allows plenty of space for everything.

 
A quick dummy fit of some pipe work shows it is a good option.

 
During the weekend I helped B24 collect his 2GR from the engine builders and he offered me some spare 2GR valves to do some dummy fitting into the 1MZ heads I have sitting around. The 2GR valves are a honking big valve compared to the 1MZ.

1MZ-FE (without VVT-i)
Intake valve diameter: 34.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 27.3 mm
Intake valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Exhaust valve overall length: 95.50 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm
 
2GR-FE
Intake valve diameter: 38.0 mm
Exhaust valve diameter: 32.0 mm
Overall intake valve length: 105.85 mm
Overall exhaust valve length: 110.4 mm
Valve stem diameter: 5.5 mm
 
First think I noticed was, the two heads I have here are not a matched pair... One is a VVT head and one is not.

 

 
There is a noticeable difference in combustion chamber, valve guides and valve seats.
 


 
Plonking the valves in one head showed they were very close to touching, however they are unseated and would clear once fitted to the heads correctly. It would just be a case of ensuring the duration/overlap of the camshafts would not cause an interference.

 
Dropping them into the other head showed that due to the increased squish area, the valves will not sit without machining it back. However I reckon it can still be done.

 
One of these heads has had the intake ports ported out, so I thought I would show a quick comparison.

Stock porting, pretty rough and pretty average.

 
Ported head, cleaned up and looks the goods.

 
Gives me ideas for when I get around to porting some heads....

Spent the long weekend stripping down the sludge 3MZ motor. It turned out to be a mix bag.
 
The camshafts and heads are a write off, oil starvation has damaged both.

 
Pulling the head off showed the deck and head gasket were both in good condition.

 
Combustion chambers were a bit ugly, but nothing that cannot be cleaned up. Unfortunately the damage to the cam journals make these heads a write off without line boring.
 
Comparison of rods. 1MZ on the left, 3MZ in the center and 2GR on the right.

 
Block and bores were good, just a little surface rust to be cleaned out with a light hone.

 
Crank was also a write off.


 
Love them six bolt mains!

 
Pistons were pretty filthy.

 
However with some degreaser and some elbow grease, they came up pretty good.

 
With the motor torn down, it's time to start piecing together the project plans....

Finally bought myself a dremel on the weekend to clean up the ****ized rough job I did to form the first half of the 4AGZE intake. It took about 2 hours to run 80 and 120 grit sanding drums through the ports and it is now "good enough". The photos might look like the ports are rough, but they are smooth to touch, which is good enough for me.
 









 
Next step is to weld the plenum parts together and get it on the motor.

With the 3MZ finally stripped down and finally being able to look at things with first hand experience, time to put together a project plan. While the 1MZ pistons are known to fail once you start pushing pass 300RWHP, I found the specifics of this issue is generally due to the ring lands cracking at the edge of the valve fly cuts and piston crown. However now having a set of 3MZ pistons in my hands, I noticed there is nearly double the material on the crown, which means these pistons should be able to handle a bit more power before they develop the same issue (or an issue else where).

 
With the 1MZ/3MZ hybrid, the compression ratio ends up being 10.9:1 due to the 55.73cc combustion chamber volume. I want to run 9.5:1 compression as to allow a higher boost setup, which means I need to port the combustion chambers out to 65cc.  I'm looking to come up with a CNC program to machine out the required ~10cc, while making the combustion chamber more hemispherical and removing any sharp edges from the squish regions.

At least you've got some heads to practice on ;-)

So it begins.
 

 

 
I've never heard of the AW11 sunroofs leaking or rusting, this is probably why. They have 4 drain tubes in each corner that channel any water out of the car.

 

 
Will give all these a good scrub up and a treatment, then start transplanting them into the SlushDub to replace it's rather tattered blue interior.

 
Going to have to give this a little bit of attention soon.

Great updates, keep them coming!

Guess you've found where the sunroof water is drained to ;-)

5SGTE
Guess you've found where the sunroof water is drained to ;-)

I believe the rust forms due to leaf litter and dirt wedging between the body and guard.
The sunroof drains are probably just adding to it :P