One step forward, two steps back....
 
Replaced battery, looped the oil cooler back to the sump using the remaining leak free hose and then rigged up direct power to the coils with a jump wire to do a start up. It fired up first go and all was good. Removed the jumper wire on the coils, did some other work on the car, finished up for the night, removed the keys and went to bed. Get up the next day, decide to do another start up to listen to the sweet roar of the straight through exhaust, turn the key.... Nothing, absolution no voltage....
 
Check the terminals, no difference, stick a volt meter on it, 4.8v...
 

 
So I've stuck the battery on charge to try to revive it, if not, a quick trip back to SuperTheif Auto for a return/swap of the 4 day old battery... Now I have to take my chances with disconnecting the battery every time I park it up or piss a lot of time chasing a ghost of an electric issue... I think when I get back from the MTC, I'm going to rip the whole loom apart and start from scratch and relocate the ECU to behind the passenger seat while I'm at it.
 
5 days till we leave....

Dont forget to put the oil cap on this time too.
 

In a strange twist of events, the awesome bearing & belt shop I frequent happens to have oil coolers in stock and they were open today, so instead of just fixing the hoses on the stock cooler, I grabbed a 30 row cooler for $100. This will bolt directly onto my thermostatic oil cooler plate and will use the same hoses and fittings I already have from my half built W2O cooler. So will be a busy evening under the car swapping the oil cooler plates over now!

TO DO LIST:
- Finish Flares and cutting wheel arches
- Service whole car (fluids, filters etc etc) - sorta have some new oil in it...
- Fit Oil cooler + adaptor - Apparently I have time for this now...
- Wire up gauges and senders
- Swap street tires to steelies, semi's to grids.
- Paint Steelies white - Ain't nobody got time fo dat.
- Weld up new seat rails and fit bucket seat
- Weld up harness bar and fit harnesses
- Get wheel alignment - Booked in for Friday morning.
- Fit rear braided lines and bleed brakes
- Strip boot carpets, liners and air pipes
- Mount ECU properly to firewall
- Fix ignition coil issues (setup up on relay?)
- Swap over rear left tie rod from SkidDub
- Fit new B pipe and weld up exhaust
- Build and fit 6 speed gearbox - Ain't nobody got time fo dat.
- Make rear camber tops
- Fix up air scoop with new base seal and reconnect intake pipe
- Setup Launch Control and Flat Shift
 
Looks like I'll be LSD less again for this event :(
Maybe 2015....

Do you see me complaining about LSD?? Oh wait thats right I have BEAMSSSSSS

Tree
Do you see me complaining about LSD?? Oh wait thats right I have BEAMSSSSSS

I guess BEAMS just doesn't have enough power to require more traction :D
 
*Awaits Ken to comment about 250HP turbo and no LSD*

Apparently I went a little over board with the oil cooler...
 

Nope, doesn't fit that way...
 

Not that way either....
 

Ahh.... Perfect! Bosozuku style!
 
 
Might have to take it back and settle for the 25 row cooler instead :(
 
At least the cooler plate fits great.

Ha ha.
 
Would a narrow cooler, same height fit? Thats whats normal for SW's, tall and skinny.
 
What happened to the laminova?

A narrow cooler would make things easier, but they don't have any off the shelf coolers like that. I might even consider getting two smaller coolers yet and stacking them to make it of similar capacity.
The Laminova needs a few things machined, then sent off the the welders and then finally, pressure/leak tested. I haven't been able to setup my machinery in the new shed yet, so I haven't been able to machine the rest of the parts, so haven't bothered sending it to the welders :)

I think one small cooler would be fine. Only a little na engine. And it's not even beams lol. 2 coolers would just double to amount of things that could leak.