When will we see the V6 in the trackdub?
 

Not sure at this stage, probably when the 20V packs it in from abuse.

Some times when your looking at a certain modification path, no one else has done it before and you must pioneer it yourself.
Time to order the following:
13751-88460
13753-88893
13753-88503
90501-35022
13734-88460
90913-03021
13753-74330
13751-74020
90913-03028
13741-20020
90501-31010
13734-20010
13751-46370
 
In short, it's 1 valve train setup from a Gen 3 3SGTE shim under bucket, 1 valve train setup from a 1MZFE shim over bucket and a shimless bucket from a 1ZZFE. I've read rumours here and there that this works with that, but it's time to actually find out...

And this arrived today >.>

So your not sure if the buckets are interchangeable? I know the 1zz/2zz items fit the 3sgte. If they fit the V6, thats a great step forward. After the mucking around I experienced with my cylinder head rebuild, I would recommend the following.
Make sure the valve seating is done correctly without any shrouding of the valve/chamber and they are all the same then buy one size valve, then have the valves tipped to suit the correct clearances. Also, make sure the clearances of shim to valve are the larger clearance in the range due to the heat experienced when thrashing at the track. There is a guy in Brisbane who can help. He looks after the speedcar teams up there. My engine builder in Sydney mentioned him as he is highly regarded in the Speedway scene. It will cost around $500 per head, but the time saving and results are worth it.
Is the SC for the 20v or the V6?
Are the V6 valves interchangeable with the 3sgte or 4ag?
 
Well, it looks like you have something to keep you busy while watching F1!

I've heard that the 1ZZ/3S/1MZ all share the same size bucket diameter, but I've yet to see anyone actually do a write up about installing them.
The big thing I'm looking at is I've sent off a spare pair of stock 1MZ cams to Kelfords Cams NZ to look at getting them reground to better profiles (new billet cams are prohibitively expensive for a 1MZ). The probably with regrinding is that I will need much bigger shims to make up the lose in base circle, and being a shim over bucket setup, I'm worried it will spit a shim out at higher RPM due to the more aggressive cam profile and over sized shims. I would swap straight to the 1ZZ shimless buckets, but I have a suspicion that they will not have enough thickness to make up the base circle of the reground cams. So I've started looking into the shim under bucket setup from the Gen3 3S, which I should be able to use over sized shims on without them flying out.
But since no one has documented doing any of this or isn't willing to share the information, I'm buying all the parts for 1 valve setup from each motor and getting a hands on 100% solid confirmation with my own eyes.

Thanks for clearing that up. There must be a fair few parts you can adapt to the engine but it can become a pretty expensive exercise to get 300hp but it will be reliable and low maintenance. Camtech in Sydney may be able to help out with camshafts.
I think you should throw that SC on it and save a whole lot of mucking around.
There is a guy in Qld who built a V6 AW. Can you contact him for info?

The M62 Supercharger a couple of posts back is going on the SlushDub. I could probably fit it to the V6, but it's a tad small still for any real amount of power (M62 in a 3.8L commondore on 10psi makes ~230RWHP). Eventually I'm going to buy a Kenne Bell 2.1L twinscrew supercharger

to put on it and aim for something silly, like 300RWHP. The KB unit will handle high boost up to 16-18psi without needing to spin it to stupid speeds and should remain in it's efficiency range.
 
But for now I want to get the 1MZ in and running as an NA with a few tweaks. Once I can spend a year or two abusing the 1MZ and fixing any problems with the plateform, I'll consider to moving to the next step with the big twinscrew. All in all, I'm in no rush to go boosted, I've grown to enjoy the simplicity and reliability of an NA and the lack of power just encourages me to improve my driving to go faster instead of just adding more HP :)

I have just checked out ebay to get an idea on pricing for SC upgrades and it looks as expensive as turbo. I guess if you stick with the Toyota units, you can manage costs and will give that 20v an edge.
Good to see your staying with NA V6. They just need to do more above 4500rpm and it would be a great package. A 160rwkw V6 AW would be a very efficient package at any circuit. A 1.09 at Wakefield would be possible. Would also be reliable enough for a 300km race(they are looking at QIR) if that has crossed your mind.

The reason the V6's take such a dive after 5000rpm is because the factory cams are massively restricting the motors ability to breathe up in the top end. They are only 228 degree cams on both in/ex, which is probably apart of Toyota design of giving these motors the ability to make lots of down low torque (230Nm @ 1000RPM...) for daily driving and better load driving ability.
I'm hoping that with cams in the 264 region, the motor should be able to keep building HP right up to around 6500-7000RPM.
 
Anyway, ended up doing some more 6-Speed gearbox work today.
Removed the bearings off the ZZW30 Helical LSD, but had to redesign my bearing puller in the process, using the angle grinder...

 
And I finally stripped down a spare C52 for the gearbox casing.

 
Just need to buy / build a new bearing puller to remove the 5th/6th gears off the C60, then I can start the assembly process.