What it's meant to look like -
datagraph by AlanCSSalt, on Flickr

Working on installing SpeedHut tacho, to get better accuracy than 1ZZ tacho hopefully.
 

 

 
Will trim cover to suit.
 

 

 
To Do List:
Convertible Top, Blue Stayfast, Glass Window - $875 - Got it, so far, bit intimidated..
Mocal Large Diameter Flush Fit Fuel Filler Cap 4 Inch Diameter With Funnel Locking - $330
Carmate $361 – TRD sideskirt replicas – unspecified delay – two months so far. “Waiting for stock”.
CEIKA $1,275.00 USD – Coilovers – 4 week wait.
Autotechnik $1275 + $85 delivery to 2480 - $500 deposited - $860 owing - RPF1 Rims (I have a bent rear, and single replacement rim from Toyota is around $1200 – so a full set matching original staggered as far as possible. 8 week wait.
Apexi PowerFC - $AU1642.00 Customs adds $326.34, hence $1968.34 In my possession.
DynoTune quote - $550
RDA brakes - Slotted & Dimpled Replacement Rotors, FRONT- $220.00 Inc Gst, Pair - REAR- $220.00 Inc Gst, Pair - shipping direct $20.00 Inc Gst – In the mail.
New facelift air scoops - side – Only Black available - $132 each. One RH duct $135
Once rotors arrive, get all callipers rebuilt, painted, new pads.

PowerFC. Dyno guy will let me know when there's an opening.
 
 

Want to get brakes up to it.

Found a motor trimmer to put the blue stayfast top on. Booked for next Tuesday.

 
 

CEIKA - 1 - Type 1M Coilover Kit (Set of 4)
Front spring rate (kg/mm): 7
Rear spring rate (kg/mm): 8
Valving Type / Ride Feel: Stock / Comfort
Front top plates: Camber adjustable
Rear top plates: Camber adjustable
Dual springs / Helper springs:
Car Brand: Toyota
Car Model: MR2 Spyder
Year: 2004
 
Once fitted they were harsher than my CASA struts. I got them to make me a set of softer springs. They weren't keen, but I insisted. 4kg front and 6kg back. Now that car rides the same as my other one with CASA 6kg and 8kg - I guess the difference is in their damping.
 
 
Blue Stayfast top fitted by Bryan Mackney, (02) 66621255 - North Coast Trimming and Supplies, 1/3 Cassino Dr, Casino NSW 2470 - Did a good job!

rwhp, 4th gear - Dynoed by Dean Amos, Lismore - 0414560550
 
Thoroughly recommended.
 

 
For compare: but in hp, not rwhp
 

 
and a Lotus 2ZZ:

 
 

 

 

Last time I compression tested my motor, we'd just pulled it from a wreck that had been standing for a year. The compression didn't look that good on the day.
 
 
 
So after donating my PFC map to Ess Dub and having it soundly criticised for richness and conservatism - (I had 159whp @ 7600 rpm) - Ess Dub managed, with Chris Jones, to get 173whp @ 8400 rpm. I had to wonder if it was my motor or the tuning, so another compression test.
 

Seems to have improved with use.
So next week I'll try writing Ess Dub's map to my PFC and seeing what results.

Ess Dub's map didn't do it for my engine. His map is the blue line. Mine is the red.
Works for his, so obviously engines differ. Sticking with my map.
 
 

 
Made a small cosmetic change to my flank air intakes - painted the inside silver.
 
 

 

When dyno guy Dean did my car, he commented on "bit of engine noise". Asked various mechanics, most of whom didn't have a clue, until I found a guy that used to race AW11. He said "bit of cam chain noise and small end noise. He didn't try to cash in. Said leave it alone unless it gets louder. That's a while back.
 

First i walk around with Gopro and mic, then hang it above motor. Trying to record that "clatter".

So two nights ago I'm looking at ebay, and in the "Items you might be interested in" was a 9000km JDM 2ZZ Celica motor, box, crossmember, suspension and brakes. Turns out the guy bought it 10 years ago to put in an Elise, and never did. I bought it. I'm stripping off the stuff I don't need now.
 

 

 
This thing is just so clean/new - no corrosion anywhere.
 
According to the Yanks there's supposed to be a vin tag riveted to the block.

But I can't find anything like that (above) on my "new" motor. 
Got the motor off the crossmember and pallet.

 

Blocks been full of vinegar for three days now. (Crystalline precipitate in water jacket from long inactivity. At least it was turned over regularly.) Probably flush it tomorrow. Gear selectors in. Smooth (not ribbed) shifter housing says early Celica. Early lift bolts out and replaced. Trying to polish rocker cover even though the cosmetic stuff isn't a big focus... no scuffing on cams. Hoping to not find faults. Even 400 grit W&D doesn't get rid of all the dark grey (oxidised?) marks. How deep is that. May have to resort to engine enamel instead... Update: Mate lent me his bench grinder with buffer pad and jeweller's rouge bar. That got it to as good as the pics below.
 

 

I expected the welch plug (designed in the 1900s by the Welch brothers at the Welch Motor Car Company of Pontiac, Michigan) for the offside shifter opening to be an interference fit, but it isn't. It'll be the RTV holding it in. Not like it's under pressure.

Looking absolutely awesome.. Following this.