nuk1ear
Taking a guess here steve but are you getting your car wired up at GR motorsports?

No I dont believe he is, altho I would recommend them

If he'll take your money right Brendo? :D

Everyone takes my money

There are a few more licences then that
GPA - has traction control, but no launch and anti lag
GPR - see above
GPRP - add paddleshift
Development - write your own package
Basic custom - run a custom package

Its actually easy to run out of outputs. Depending on your setup, doing a 2gr would require a dbw4 or e888, as you need 6 ign and inj outputs, throttle takes 4 aux, cam solenoids, fuel pump, intake manifold flap (if stock manifold) leaving not much else even when you reassign spare inj outputs.

A development licence would be not much use to an end user, particularily when you can have a custom package built to your specs by quite a few dealers worldwide (john reed racing comes to mind, he has built quite a few for sale for $750usd)

We frequently run out of inputs and outputs on hundred series ecus.

M130 runs oht just as quick, hence the m150 is pretty handy.

Forgot about the cost of adding developer license, yes, correct as I said most people have no need for it. But ive been involved with designing a custom traction control system with a vehicle and we are writing our own code for this as well as many other aspects of the engine control (water pump control etc.). It has its uses, just not for many.
 
Yes, of course you will run out of IO on an hundred series if thats all you are using, but almost every vehicle ive used with one has a motec dash as well (when some spend money they dont stop haha), so the IO of the pair is usually more than enough but it gets expensive.

I also left out you need to buy a licence for m1build to be able to 'publish' your package.

Yes, the Motec sounds like a lot of work and money for a amateur race car.
One of Charlies friends is doing the wiring. I am not running the factory intake so I will save a input or two.
 

Not really. Its when people go beyond what they need that it can get expensive. They only thing you would want to change from my street car setup to run your car as an example steve would be dual lambda instead of single.

The motec (m84) required to run an sw20/aw11 is under 2k. Add 100 for wiring connectors, do your own wiring and a wideband sensor and your laughing.

nuk1ear
Pretty sure charlie was using a WOLF500 or one of their later series. I doubt the M800 would run out of inputs/outputs on the majority of setups haha. M130/50 is a great ECU for the price and I would prefer a motec over any haltech series simply because of the M1 BUILD program so you can literally rewrite the code for the ECU. Most people have no need or care for this, in which case the ELITE are a great ECU. Best bit about the M1 series compared to the hundred series is they only have 2 packages now, no BS 20 upgrades which cost a fortune (still expensive). 
 
U need the GPR package for the motec to run traction and launch, the haltech traction control is very basic compared to the motec control methods.
 
Hardest bit about tuning these engines is the cam phasing. Because both inlet and exhaust cams can shift theres a lot of playing around to understand which angle for which RPMs benefit most. Doing a full rpm band run with each iteration of around 10deg phase for inlets, then same for exhaust, overlaying graphs to find the intersecting points to know when to trasition the cam advance....It all takes a lot of time! Cant wait to see this thing running!
 
Taking a guess here steve but are you getting your car wired up at GR motorsports?
 

simulating the engine is something like Engine analyzer pro, you could run every possible phasing combination to put you in a very good starting point.    The program would be cheaper than the dyno time.
 

B24
The reality of installing the 2GR is almost there.
 
There are a few mods required if you wish to do this. Cutting some aspects of the V6 block is required for fitment of the E153. Unfortunately the engine number is partially removed to allow for the clutch slave cylinder. Some more filing is required for the gearbox install.
Unless you wish to have bungs welded on a Gen 2 bellhousing, you will need the Gen 3 housing. The Camry gearbox has a different diff housing which does not allow the use of the MR2 bracket. If this is the only gearbox available you will need to modify the rear gearbox housing so it attaches to the gearbox in a decent manner. A TIG welder will be required.
If you are interested in making your own exhaust manifold, Liverpool exhaust now has the 2GR flange with holes to suit 1 7/8" pipe. These are inserted then welded but simply butt welded to the flange. $100 per set.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Are you going to use 1 7/8 pipe?   That size primary pipe is good for 650hp.   Under 500ph 1 3/4 would be better.