Some photos of head porting.
Before

After

Exhaust

After

 

I thought you saw the setup last time at Wakefield? With your different LCA's you have a easier time fitting your own as you can mount it any way you like, unlike the factory arms that you bolt them to.

kameleon
I thought you saw the setup last time at Wakefield? With your different LCA's you have a easier time fitting your own as you can mount it any way you like, unlike the factory arms that you bolt them to.

No , I didn't get a chance or I simply forgot as I tend to be pretty busy over the two days! I guess you are right about customising to suit what will be installed.

Out of general curiosity, are you doing anything to brace the bores or anything in the way of sleeving?

My now vague recollection of these engines was that the bores arent great in these motors, they were prone to wandering and ovaling - as the very least care needs to be taken when boring and honing the block.

While you had it apart, did you have a chance to pick up the block/bottom end on its own?? They are very light until all the sumps, covers and heads are bolted on.

Nice port work btw, good to see the exhaust opened up. I couldnt believe the exhaust ports when I first saw them, they reminded me of a 4a head.

MCT_MR2
Out of general curiosity, are you doing anything to brace the bores or anything in the way of sleeving?

My now vague recollection of these engines was that the bores arent great in these motors, they were prone to wandering and ovaling - as the very least care needs to be taken when boring and honing the block.

While you had it apart, did you have a chance to pick up the block/bottom end on its own?? They are very light until all the sumps, covers and heads are bolted on.

Nice port work btw, good to see the exhaust opened up. I couldnt believe the exhaust ports when I first saw them, they reminded me of a 4a head.

Hey MCT,
just to answer your questions, yes the block is being 'pinned'. The engine builder mentioned the exact problem with other makes of engine then recommended that we pin the block. Top only as there is no need to do the bottom as we are not running boost.
Yes I have picked up the bare block to check the weight. Also have a bare 1MZ which is very similar (in weight)to the 2GR but all the 2GR bolt-on's weigh it down.
He is well recognised for his porting but I will get him to tone it down the inlet on the second engine as it does not need to be as big as it is. It is flowing well in excess of the cam lift so less will not hurt it. The existing inlet ports are a little to big for the intermediate runner. This will be port matched but it could create a small issue with taper so less next time round will be better.
One thing I was thinking of was to oval the exhaust ports to remove the obstruction on the last port. Have you seen this? Any view on this?
I would have liked a bigger exhaust valve too, but its not really required as it is expected to make enough power in its current tune.
 
Thanks for the feedback!
 

Yeah, the intermediate runner has a really steep taper tied in with the port shape changing. They actually share a lot in common with the 350z in that regard, which is probably why cosworth turned their manifold runners back on themselves instead of going for a cross ram design.

Unfortunantley I never played with these motors from a performance aspect, however I have rebuilt about 30 of them in my time when I worked for a major victorian toyota dealership.

The main things I remember about them were common faults, failures etc. For instance:
*bores ovaling and wandering, even in a production capacity
*vvti oil supply pipes for the back bank were prone to cracking
*pistons and ring were revised 3 or 4 times, the main issues were skirt length and design wearing the bores, oil control rings being too low tension, and also had an issue with gumming up and sticking into the piston relief.
*vvti cam gears had an issue with the retaining pin flogging out - it never affected operation, but caused a lot of noise on startup.
*if using headbolts, genuine only, NEVER reuse them, and the threads in the block aren't great, we had to helicoil quite a few as they had a habit of pulling threads out the block.
*if torque plate honing, use an alloy torque plate, not a steel one.
*run an oil cooler - these things cook oil, and cause trouble with the vvti filters, and valve stem seals.
*if you got a later model engine and have the black plastic oil filter housing, ditch it and get an alloy one from an earlier model.

Oh, if your using genuine main bearings (they never caused issues, they were a good thing) did your engine builder have fun selecting the right size? I recall there being a number on the crank, block and cradle, and you had a chart which based off the three numbers there were one of six or eight bearing thicknesses to use.

MCT_MR2
Yeah, the intermediate runner has a really steep taper tied in with the port shape changing. They actually share a lot in common with the 350z in that regard, which is probably why cosworth turned their manifold runners back on themselves instead of going for a cross ram design.

Unfortunantley I never played with these motors from a performance aspect, however I have rebuilt about 30 of them in my time when I worked for a major victorian toyota dealership.

The main things I remember about them were common faults, failures etc. For instance:
*bores ovaling and wandering, even in a production capacity
*vvti oil supply pipes for the back bank were prone to cracking
*pistons and ring were revised 3 or 4 times, the main issues were skirt length and design wearing the bores, oil control rings being too low tension, and also had an issue with gumming up and sticking into the piston relief.
*vvti cam gears had an issue with the retaining pin flogging out - it never affected operation, but caused a lot of noise on startup.
*if using headbolts, genuine only, NEVER reuse them, and the threads in the block aren't great, we had to helicoil quite a few as they had a habit of pulling threads out the block.
*if torque plate honing, use an alloy torque plate, not a steel one.
*run an oil cooler - these things cook oil, and cause trouble with the vvti filters, and valve stem seals.
*if you got a later model engine and have the black plastic oil filter housing, ditch it and get an alloy one from an earlier model.

Oh, if your using genuine main bearings (they never caused issues, they were a good thing) did your engine builder have fun selecting the right size? I recall there being a number on the crank, block and cradle, and you had a chart which based off the three numbers there were one of six or eight bearing thicknesses to use.

Thanks for all the info on the engine. I have passed it all onto the engine builder. The block has now been pinned and the torque plate is on its way.
I will be running a oil cooler but it will not sludge up as I change the oil every 500km! Just a track thing..
 
Cheers

 
The camshafts are now finished and in transit. Such a relief. Based on the data I provided for the cams,
 
The standard camshafts can be reground to provide a great performance upgrade over the standard units. Price is around $1000 plus shipping/taxes etc. If you upgrade the heads/plenum/exhaust, you will enjoy some impressive gains over the standard output.
 
I have most of the intake manifold components sorted with the balance to be sourced and fabricated next week. This seems to be a pretty important part of this build. Here are some pic's of the 'core' of the manifold. I could not finish the second manifold as one of the runners was the wrong diameter. No big deal.
 
 

MCT_MR2
Yeah, the intermediate runner has a really steep taper tied in with the port shape changing. They actually share a lot in common with the 350z in that regard, which is probably why cosworth turned their manifold runners back on themselves instead of going for a cross ram design.

Unfortunantley I never played with these motors from a performance aspect, however I have rebuilt about 30 of them in my time when I worked for a major victorian toyota dealership.

The main things I remember about them were common faults, failures etc. For instance:
*bores ovaling and wandering, even in a production capacity
*vvti oil supply pipes for the back bank were prone to cracking
*pistons and ring were revised 3 or 4 times, the main issues were skirt length and design wearing the bores, oil control rings being too low tension, and also had an issue with gumming up and sticking into the piston relief.
*vvti cam gears had an issue with the retaining pin flogging out - it never affected operation, but caused a lot of noise on startup.
*if using headbolts, genuine only, NEVER reuse them, and the threads in the block aren't great, we had to helicoil quite a few as they had a habit of pulling threads out the block.
*if torque plate honing, use an alloy torque plate, not a steel one.
*run an oil cooler - these things cook oil, and cause trouble with the vvti filters, and valve stem seals.
*if you got a later model engine and have the black plastic oil filter housing, ditch it and get an alloy one from an earlier model.

Oh, if your using genuine main bearings (they never caused issues, they were a good thing) did your engine builder have fun selecting the right size? I recall there being a number on the crank, block and cradle, and you had a chart which based off the three numbers there were one of six or eight bearing thicknesses to use.

I just read through everything you wrote (again). Thankyou for all the info as it is invaluable. If you are interested in helping out the engine assembly, perhaps we could work something out?
Cheers
 
Steve 

Its been a while between updates as I have not done too much but there is a little to report. Since the MR2 Australia Trackd21 Challenge is now done and dusted for another year (already planning 2016..) its back to sorting out all the odds and ends before the engine is ready to install.
The engine had plenty of delays from the machinist to the camshafts. Camshaft design and build has taken quite some time but as one camshaft was incorrect then needed to be thrown then a new one machined up. Once this was done, it was sent off for the custom grind then arrived back in Sydney. There seems to be a few curve balls with the 2GR but they have been overcome. Seems like it will be a pretty stout engine when its up and running. The goal is 460hp/10:1 comp at 7500rpm/98 octane. As I cannot leave anything alone..its now set up at 12.8:1 comp/7500rpm with a 'wait and see' on the results. Certainly not expecting the goal number but its best to try and get as close as possible. I do have a concern it will be 'over the top' as close to 300rwkw in a 1000kg car is a bit crazy. At least I will be in with a chance of a top five finish at MTC 2016!
The plenum is almost finished with twin throttle bodies running of a common linkage and a undisclosed plenum volume to suit the cams/exhaust etc.
The fuel system will receive a 2.5 ltr surge tank/044 external pump/earls 40 micron fuel filter/new alloy fuel lines with earls fittings. Fuel surge tank and pump will be fitted in the 'frunk'. There are a few mods to the fuel tank lines but pretty easy mod and I keep the weight out of the rear of the car. the balance of the parts will be here tomorrow with install over the next few afternoons.
Did a test fit of the Haltech Elite/Smartwire module today which all looks ok. The IQ3 is fitted and the harness is ready for the sparky.
The seat has been replaced with the Recaro. Its a little tight which gives me incentive to do some exercise! It has been reset so its very comfortable with correct seating etc. Steering column has also been reset so it is exactly in the centre of the seat.
The lower control arm link conversion is still at the half way point but it will be receiving a nudge very soon.
So it is coming together with engine install expected in a few weeks time but will have to see how it evolves over the coming weeks.