Its not the heater that im thinking about , its the 2 circuits.
 
Normally an engine circulates the coolant in the engine, then when the temp is up the thermostat opens , lets radiator cold coolant into the engine. When cooled it closes and recirculates in the engine, repeating the process. And the fans at the same time do their cycle. This in turn keeps a stable engine temp.
A stuffed thermostat would show big variations in temperature if stuck open.
 
I guess its different with a track car

Im not sure what he was using to control the water pump, but usually you have a speed controller, based on engine temp, sot he water pump will be the thermostat as such, wouldn't be running 100%

To answer your question,
The water pump is controlled by a electronic unit which receives the water temps from a water temp sender located next to the standard unit. This system eliminates the need for the standard mechanical cooling system (thermostat). So it converts the standard anologue system to digital.
The turbo cooling now operates in the opposite direction to the orginal bypass unit. With the standard unit (as you well know) it pushes water into the turbo while the pump sucks it out of the turbo to the bypass line and back around the engine. I didnt like this as it adds heated coolant to the engine,also Im not running throttle heating or interior heating, the by pass was not required, hence removal. I don't think the system would work if you kept the standard bypass system as it requires the water to be sucked back to the standard pump but this system pushes the water to the engine then sucks it back to the radiator. Im sure it could be routed to allow the by pass to operate in the standard layout.
The turbo cooling is now pushed from the bypass inlet (the inlet was welded up, tapped, then Earls fitting inserted to high temp hose lined with gold leaf tape) to the turbo then exits to the outlet housing of the cylinder head. I guess you could do the same with the throttle heating lines too.
If you have the Haltec, it should have a option to manage the water pump if you go down that path.
Hope that helps
 
Cheers 

I havent been updating the car lately as not much has happened in the last few weeks outside of a few photos by a friend who is a photographer. Next time will have to wash the car first..

Lokos like the car will be 'run in' by the end of June so will be a track very soon.
A new turbo has been sourced, being fitted up this week. Have gone with the GTX3071r,C-one manifold, external wastegate, v band 3 inch exhaust. So almost everything has been changed. Sourced all the fittings at Earls. He said he could not work out what was required and to bring everything I could to make it easier. 45min later he has a GTX3071 and manifold on his desk! He was happy and it wa all solved in a short amount of time. The oil drain at the sump was fabricated today to handle the -10 fittings with install expected tomorrow night.
The next point is running race fuel. It will provide consistant quality fuel but at 1.4bar/20lb, but it will be a little over the top for track work as the power estimate will be 300rwkw which is a hell of a lot of power in a 1000kg car. It will not be running E85 as its not worth the hassle. More upgrades, more maintenance and works out at $2tlr.
Race fuel is $2.85 with better ecomomy, fill it up and off you go and no maintenance issues outside of empty the take when you get home.
 
Im running Penrite oils in the engine and gearbox, redline CV grease(CV2/800F), Elf brake fluid but this may change due to costs and VT race fuel supplied out of Victoria.
Turbo pic's

 

What Octane is the race fuel at $2.85 ? Is it elf ? because i was told triple that.

Nice update Steve. 300rwkw? thats going to be running it pretty hard!

The fuel is VT 102 octane with less than 5% alcohol content. Elf starts at $5 a ltr then goes up to about $8 in some cases.
As for the 300kw figure, its the figure people have been throwing around not something I have come up with. It will be running 268/10.5 cams at 1.4 bar on race fuel with no restrictions to emmissions or exhaust. I personally dont know what it will make but expect to be somewhere around that figure.
One thing for sure, it will be a hairy ride..

who cares about the number at the end, particularily in your application, there will be more midrange to pull out of corners, and top end to haul down the straights. Another one to check out would be just fuel petroleum, they are also in vic, but have good prices on their race fuels. Some elf fuel is 8 a litre these days?? I have a 60l drum of useless elf 124 kicking around, should sell it. Hks 110 octane is only 9 a litre in a 20l drum.

I bought andy a 20l of Elf turbomax that he never used, would be quite off by now!
 
Looking forward to seeing you out there again Steve.