A basic steam pipe log manifold is cheap to make, quite resistant to cracking due to the thickness of the materials and are easily ceramic coated to assist with temperature management.

As an example, the one I have half constructed for my twincharged 4AG has cost me $80 in materials so far.

I think people are getting confused thinking I'm after buying an aftermarket manifold. The car actually currently has an aftermarket manifold fitted and I believe its a genuine Japanese made one as everything else on the car is proper jdm, e.g. mines ecu, trust intercooler and piping, endless pad, tiens etc... The only issue I have is that under track day conditions at prolonged full throttle applications the manifold is getting so hot the turbo mounted silicone joiner will eventually burst as there is 2cm gap between the manifold and the joiner. I have used a thermo wrap on the pipe, no good, put a steel heat shield between the two, still no good. So I was thinking of sourcing a stock manifold as it will be well away from the joiner and I can run the factory heat shields too, however I don't want to drop performance as in power or especially turbo lag. Currently I will hit 17psi by 3000rpm. This is a factory GTS so gen3 engine.

Actually if I could rotate the compressor housing it would solve all my problems, anyone know how to rotate the compressor housing? Is it possible on a ct20b?

do you have a photo of what you are talking about? both robk and myself have welded a length of steel tube to the compressor housing to over come heat proximity issues if this is your problem

I can get a photo on the weekend but yes that is what i'm talking about. One of the primary manifold pipes is only 2cm from the silicone turbo to intercooler joiner, so welding a solid steel tube would solve it or if I could rotate the compressor housing to face upwards more, that would also solve it. I'm not sure how the turbo inlet housing is fixed on to the turbo for a ct20b?