Its more the design that causes them to warp. All the Jap clutches run quite thin friction material & discs. These can't soak up alot of heat, which causes them to heat up excessively and warp when slipped. If you've got to the stage where your clutch is slipping on launch you either need to look at a more aggressive friction material or increasing the clamp pressure of the diaphram. The first option will reduce driveability whilst the second option will increase pedal pressure required. You can have replacement discs custom made to assist in alleviating the problem of warping discs. Also, high quality SG cast floater & pressure plates assist in alleviating the problem of warping these items, as the SG cast iron is more thermally stable then the steel plates that are used in alot of clutches. Even the tilton uses steep pressure & floater plates. One clutch manufacturer that comes to mind that uses SG cast iron plates are the German (I think?) Sachs items.
Tilton, believe it or not, is not the bee's knees of clutches itself, and actually stole the design from AP racing clutches (UK company). Tilton brag about being the first manufacturers to produce a carbon carbon cluch, however, what they don't tell you is that it was an utter failure. There was a lawsuit over the stealing of intellectual property between these two companies.
Oh, and as Jason said, its the strip that eats up your clutch. For a circuit car, an overly aggressive clutch isn't really required. As long as you have something that holds the static torque your making, you're more or less fine. Drag launches are what really lunch on clutches.
I've been looking at the carbonetics carbon clutch (its not carbon carbon however) but after reading a bit, I've a couple of concerns. Main one is the need to heat the clutch up before giving it a hard launch (or it'll tend to just slip) by slipping the clutch for 3 seconds, with 30 second pauses, a number of times. Seems like a huge freak around to me. I've also heard a couple of stories of their longetivity not being what they are meant to be, though this may have been due to incorrect break in (Yes, they have a specific 2000km breakin time). I'm assuming they would also be very expensive to have rebuilt when they wear out, as new floater & pressure plates would be required, as well as the friction plates, I don't think you can really just machine down these plates like in normal clutches, where you usually get 3-4 uses out of them before they are below spec.