It's going to be a slow process but will progress none the less.
[IMG] https://fbcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-0/1904268_10153250755095898_2452895712688770708_n.jpg?efg=eyJpIjoidCJ9&oh=4de15b93090727e185ccbfd59762752f&oe=557B9DA2&__gda__=1437141403_325fc21538c8594dc50c620c28228b2e[/IMG]

Looks like a good base to start with. Keep the updates coming.
Hopefully you'll be able to come to MTC next year.... it's where all the cool kids play....

Good to see you have a goal but getting into WTAC is a lot harder than it was a few years back. Still, there are plenty of options to get you and your car 'up to speed' and as Rick stated, MR2 Challenge is about the best option for a MR2 owner.
Tell us your plan or just where you would like to see your car in 12 months. Will see if we can help you on our way.

235/40ZR17 fronts
255/40ZR17 rear
335mm 2 piece Alcon rotors with 4 pot fixed callipers.
1MZ-FE or 3VZ-FE with future boosting. Target of reliable 224rwkws to start.
Weight under 1000kg
Flared body including fastback engine cover with rear windows substituted for engine bay cooling and cold air intake (not sure if I can do this under Wtac rules, will need to investigate)

I don't think you can get to that weight with WTAC unless you go to pro class.
 
You are better off with ducting from a undertray than through the window. Roll cage will be in the way of any decent ducting (already looked at this one some time back).
There are a few guys on this forum who have some pretty serious track cars with plenty of info on their builds which would be a great help to you.
Getting 1000kg from a T top SW is a lot of work but possible. If I had my time again, I would start with a hard top shell, bead blasted, trimmed, spot and seam welded, cut the rear arches out then pop on a widebody kit before doing anything else. There are some new roll cage tubing which is lighter than what I used a few years back.
I would also recommend fitting double A link front and rear as it will save you money in the long run and you will have a far better sorted car. Basically, buy the front and rear arms and hubs off a Lotus then fit these to the car. Lot better than fighting the existing system for years on end.
 
Do you have a budget in mind? For time and money?  

B24
I don't think you can get to that weight with WTAC unless you go to pro class.

Open Class = original weight -15%
starting weight of 1174kg -> 998kg

B24
You are better off with ducting from a undertray than through the window. Roll cage will be in the way of any decent ducting (already looked at this one some time back).

Good point. Hadn't considered the cage placement.

B24
I would also recommend fitting double A link front and rear as it will save you money in the long run and you will have a far better sorted car. Basically, buy the front and rear arms and hubs off a Lotus then fit these to the car.

Hadn't really looked at the suspension much yet tbh, but thanks for the heads up. I'll have a look around for some. What model would you suggest I get the components from?

Well that's good new for my car then! I was thinking of the 3SGTE SW20 as they are heavier than 1174.
They are also picky with only allowing cars they deem 'fit' for WTAC. Something to do with laps times, power, mods etc.
I do not believe you can upgrade to double A link for open class but this could be discussed with management. As easy as a phone call. You could get away with lower A link with strut top with custom subframe. My car has ChroMo lower control arm links front and rear. They have their faults but they do perform quite well but they are still not as good as they should be. 
I have not looked into which one to use as I am currently fabricating my own set up but it is only lower A link with custom subframes for front and rear. Should be done by now but have been a little slack of late! There are some other options which include Supra linkage/suspension and hubs front and rear, RX7, RX8,MX5 NC. FT86 front suspension/links, EVO is also an option. Also looked at the Honda S2000 which is a compact setup which is proven.
 
Have you spent much time at trackdays, competition driving or the likes?
 
 
 

No time at track days yet, car isn't currently able to move under is own power, need to do some rewiring to get it all up and running.

B24
I don't think you can get to that weight with WTAC unless you go to pro class.
 
You are better off with ducting from a undertray than through the window. Roll cage will be in the way of any decent ducting (already looked at this one some time back).
There are a few guys on this forum who have some pretty serious track cars with plenty of info on their builds which would be a great help to you.
Getting 1000kg from a T top SW is a lot of work but possible. If I had my time again, I would start with a hard top shell, bead blasted, trimmed, spot and seam welded, cut the rear arches out then pop on a widebody kit before doing anything else. There are some new roll cage tubing which is lighter than what I used a few years back.
I would also recommend fitting double A link front and rear as it will save you money in the long run and you will have a far better sorted car. Basically, buy the front and rear arms and hubs off a Lotus then fit these to the car. Lot better than fighting the existing system for years on end.
 
Do you have a budget in mind? For time and money?  

If anyone is really serious about that, I have a full set of wishbones, uprights and hubs from an Exige laying around, VGC,  came off a race car with minimum use.  Even have spherical bearings installed instead of bushings.

That sounds really good, how much are you after for it?