Having thought about it a little more, I had a few more ideas (assuming the issue is fuel related):

• Buy/borrow injector 'noid lights' to test & confirm that injectors are getting the signal to fire.
• Fuel pressure does not necessarily guarantee fuel flow - it may be worth checking your fuel pump & filter if you have spares on hand.

Good luck!

Well here go again because this car is all Gen 3 as it is a cross over from Gen 2 to Gen 3 build 11/92 apart from the motor. I have issues finding an Ecu from a mate car As they all have gen 2 this ECU is difference. I have know idea what to do next. Do I buy another ECU or invest in a after market ECU? Just a little worried about getting it through Regency with an after market ECU. I know this is a long shot does anyone have a ECU same as the photo that I have put up?

Have you checked if the ecu will give any fault codes?
Agree with the person above you really need injector noid lights to check if the main injectors are even firing.
The ECU will provide a signal to the injectors to fire based on a number of different items in my understanding. I would disconnect coolant temp sensor, and also check earth for things like ignitor etc and body earths. The ECU will rely on a good earth from ignitor and other things to send the signal to fire injectors. Hence why you have spark but no fuel supply.. Just a theory based on **** that's happened to me in the past

Be highly unlikely that the ecu has crapped the bed

In the first post you said you had tried another ecu but lower down you say you are looking for one to test with?
 
The ecu pictured is a late gen 2 ecu. Shouldn't be too hard to locate one if you want to swap it out.
 
Take the lid of the ecu and look for any damaged components inside like capacitors.
 
It's already been mentioned but have you confirmed that the circuit opening relay is functioning correctly? Sounds to me like this could be the problem if it runs for a few seconds. 

Mrskylighter
In the first post you said you had tried another ecu but lower down you say you are looking for one to test with?
 
The ecu pictured is a late gen 2 ecu. Shouldn't be too hard to locate one if you want to swap it out.
 
Take the lid of the ecu and look for any damaged components inside like capacitors.
 
It's already been mentioned but have you confirmed that the circuit opening relay is functioning correctly? Sounds to me like this could be the problem if it runs for a few seconds. 

The ECU was a spare from the black mr2 I have which has adaptronic in it now. The two ECU I have tried have difference numbers, they are early Gen 2 to the one in the photo that's why I need one the same. I have put in pins onto E01 and Number 1 at back of the ecu, then touch them together and it fires the injector. So I check input signal, which is the dizzy and it is fine. Could be a faulty wire to ECU which I will double check. I have complete all EFI specification checks, all Ok and no fault code are giving either. It all seems to be leading back to the ECU as the 3sgte manual indicates. I will double check all wires to Injectors with Omhs meter and voltage as well. I will open up the ECU and check it.

It's also worth noting that the engine bay fan controller has been known to play silly ****s with various other circuits.
 
I've had cars which refuse to start, won't shut off, etc. brought to me and this has been one of the most common factors.  (managed to start one car, removed the key and it still drove in a straight line without issue, haha)

Easiest test at the moment to remove possibilities from the equation would be to bridge/bypass the circuit opening relay. My memory is a little bit hazy, but the airflow meter holds the circuit opening relay on after the engine starts.

Could that also mean the Afm could of pooped itself, I know that usually they just idle a little different and drive like poo, but maybe the afm could be the reason that it's shutting off?

Still no luck on finding a ECU, It look likes a links G4 is going in. Unless I find one.