If you can afford it, buy your shocks before your springs. The Koni/ Eibach combo is proven to be popular but as mark said. Late model SW20 springs will offer a similar ride height while retaining factory ride quality. I have read good things about Tokico Illuminas, being a good budget option but for a few hundred more you might as well save for another week and shell out on Konis. As far as coilovers go. Give Ottomoto in Sydney a look. Their hsd brand coilovers are probably worth a look. Dont worry about upgrading swaybars. Imo this is not an area needing much attention. just get a good allignment, some quality pads up front ( QFM performance pads ) available from Lilydale brake and clutch in VIC are awesome compromise pads for daily and track use and a change of engine fluids and get out there. Drive smoothly and have fun. These cars can bite hard if your too aggressive!

If you're upgrading brake pads, do the rear ones as well. Just upgrading the front will stuff up the brake bias. As for suspension, I got some BC racing inverted coilovers not too long ago. I played with the damper settings a little bit and it's actually not too bad on the street. You'd want to avoid potholes but it's not too uncomfortable. Just depends on what you define as comfortable. I'm yet to try them on the track but I'm sure they'll be a damn sight better than my 15 year old stock suspension. With 200hp your car should be able to keep up with a dc2 for sure. For tyres, get something like a kumho ku36, federal rsr, ad08 etc. Don't bother with ku31. Any of those "ordinary" street tyres overheat and get real slippery after only a handful of laps. The ones I listed will grip better and cope much better with the heat. They are still very forgiving, it's semi slicks that tend to be snappier on the limit.

Thanks for the good info guys don't worry my brakes are already sorted out, new standard rotors, fluid and Porterfield pads (recommended by Terry Heick in "MR2 Performance"). They're supposed to be quite good but I never reached "nosebleed" braking power due to crappy 1998 tyres (competed in 2012 ARC Forum Battle but wet conditions). In fact I never got the chance to run them in before I killed the old engine lol
For now I might just go for the 93+ springs and cheapest decent performance tyres so I can get to save up for the goodies later. I think for me getting more camber at the front is top priority. Right now it's something like -45' front, -2 deg rear, just terrible haha. I'd love to know the entire owner history of my car.
 

Oh and the reason I mention KU31's is because is hard to find 205/45/16 size for my fronts (GTSt) but my alignment shops says 205/50/16 front would be more correct aspect ratio as my rears are 225/45/16? Would 205/50/16 give better grip or that's tyre pressures?

With some luck on my side hopefully i'll have my Koni/Eibach combo fitted. I'll give you a gringos evaluation on them.

^ by this Friday...

^Slamacow!
 

Hey guys I decided to go for springs as I'm on a tight budget, probably change them out within a year or so. Once again, it's a crossroads:
94+ Springs with 170,000km on them, $240
King Springs with 10,000km to 20,000km, $170
The kings are likely lows as they only manufacture lows for the SW20, 30mm drop.
Does anyone know the drop from pre 92 to post 93?
Also numbers for camber bolts for front and rear to adjust between 0 and -2 degrees of camber

Surely you can get 94+ springs for cheaper than $240 esp with that many kms on them? I think I sold my old GAB springs for $80.

Forget manufacturers advertised drop, cos your old springs are 20 years sagged.
On my car I got about 17mm drop with 92+ springs compared to my stock 90 model ones.
At one stage I also fitted Pro-Kits and they had almost the same drop as the 92+ springs.
 
BTW, stock shocks wouldn't last long with springs with a 30mm drop. You'd need heavy duty shock inserts like Koni, Bilstein, etc. 
 
Camber bolts:
Only go for the Toyota ones. Available at several places, but I got mine from Twos'rus.
They come in 3 sizes apart from stock, and you can identify them by the number of small raised dots on the bolt heads.