If you want the rear to be stiffer, you can pretension the spring up so that its stiffer. you'll increase your rear right height a little, but i found that when i did that it did handle better overall. the SS on lowest setting is quite soft.

The knob on the top is probably compression. I reckon adjust the rebound if you can cause it will slow the springs return to normal and stop the car bouncing back as the load comes off the wheel. Stand to be corrected by any suspension experts out there

dylmrt

If you want the rear to be stiffer, you can pretension the spring up so that its stiffer. you'll increase your rear right height a little, but i found that when i did that it did handle better overall. the SS on lowest setting is quite soft.

im not real keen on adjusting the ride height as i like it where it is now
but if thats the only way then ill have to do it
what do you mean by lowest setting, as in lowered ride height or lowest damper setting ???
 
 

TRD2000

The knob on the top is probably compression. I reckon adjust the rebound if you can cause it will slow the springs return to normal and stop the car bouncing back as the load comes off the wheel. Stand to be corrected by any suspension experts out there

how am i adjustign the rebound?? is this the same as what dylan has suggested??
 
looks like ill need someone in Melbourne who really knows about sw20 and coilovers to have a look at the car
anyone want to help me out?? scared to drive the car because of this..
 
cheers

When I mean pretensioning the spring, I mean winding the bits under the springs up so that it shortens the distance between the bottom of the spring and the top of the strut.
 
This will make it stiffer, but at the same time increase the ride height. The other option is to get some after market springs that are a little stiffer than the 5kgs (e.g. get some 6kg springs) from Swift or another aftermarket spring company.
 
I assume you've already wound the damper settings to the hardest setting as well (I never really noticed a huge amount of difference when I had my SS).

damper isnt fully hard as it says not to go fully hard in order to avoid destroying the shocks..
i wound the cliker all the way clockwise until it stopped, then wound back counterclockwise 10 times for the back so not really sure where the dampening is atm as its so confusing turn it this way then back that way lol

From memory the SS have 16 clicks/increments so you'd be around 6 which is quite soft. When I had mine on the SW20 I had all four of them on about 6 without any instability in the rear. They were also quite comfortable on that setting.

so thats
wind all the way clockwise till it stops then wind counterclockwise 6 times
and same for front and back
 
the settings im on now havent been driven on yet, did that after i came home, this thing is so confusing lol
 
ill go home and set them to 6 or harder then all around and have a drive of it.
 
cheers

I think i drove mine all the time on the stiffest dampening, and it still wasn't really an issue in terms of comfort, having come from much worse before it.

 you wound it all the way clockwise till it wouldnt go anymore and drove on that setting????
 
just curious as it says not to do that cause the valve will be stuck closed or somethign along those lines and can blow the shocks.....

ok, so i have now set the damping on 8 on the front, and 12 on the rear. the car feels a bit better now but i can still feel the rear end swaying
it could just be me imaginign things thats its gotten better i dont know lol
ahd a quick look under the car everything seems to be ok or i think it looks ok anyway..
 
one thing i also forgot to mention when we took the front camber tops off to fit adjustable ones, one of the sides had the orientation the wrong way, theres a small arrow on the top thats says forward, that was pointing to the back.. now this can probably change the castor a bit, just wondering now if the rear has also been installed the same way, and wethere that will cause this issue???
 
cheers