Sure, I'll PM you to see if we can sort something out. I appreciate this a lot in advance!
 
Also, for everyone else, I noticed when I drove my mate's Subie Forester that when I clutch in his RPMs start to drop much quicker than mine. I get a massive lag, sometimes even a bump in RPM when I clutch in. I've tried completely letting off the gas and pausing for a split second before clutching, it works but it makes my shifting slow and the RPM still take a while to drop!
 
On the Forester they drop so quickly when I do that, just like you'd expect...
I'm sure it's not meant to be like that in a 3SGE!!!
 
Thoughts? :/

andezzat
 I get a massive lag, sometimes even a bump in RPM when I clutch in. 

Not that i'm a mechanic, but could that be the butterfly in the throttle body being sticky? If its reluctant to open, then opens up wide in one go, could explain the acceleration response - and being sluggish to close could explain the other problem.
 
A previous owner may have run it with a bodgy air filter, as you say you don't have the beams one. The throttle may have sucked some gunk in.

It sounds like your ecu isn't sensing load correctly. I don't know how these engines are set up and they may sense load via a MAF and/or MAP sensors. Make sure that you have these in place and they are wired correctly. If the wiring is good, try different sensors to see if yours are faulty.

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=91467

MAF sensor: The MAF sensor is no different than any other MAF, but the BEAMS ECU treats it differently. The BEAMS ECU is incredibly finicky when it comes to the MAF and it has very tight tolerances. The BEAMS ECU relies very heavily on the MAF to determine the air/fuel ratio, and it was designed to work with the stock intake. If the MAF begins to malfunction, the ECU will trim fuel, causing your engine to run improperly. Unfortunately, this means that the ECU cannot cope with any other intake besides the stock intake. This will throw the MAF readings off, meaning you will not get proper air/fuel ratios and therefore cutting power, often significantly. The best alternative to the stock intake is the SARD Sports EX Plus intake, available from rhdjapan.com, but there have been several dyno charts showing gains by replacing an aftermarket intake with the OEM intake. You can buy just the Redtop intake lid, which has the MAF housing built in, and it will fit right on top of your stock intake box, giving you a full OEM BEAMS intake.

Thanks for the reply, Admin!
I've looked into that forum thread you showed me, that's how I found out about the MAF/ECU issues. It could possibly be that or a combination of.
 
I've looked into trying to acquire the intake or getting the "Redtop intake lid" and getting it on "stock intake box", but I couldn't find the part number provided, and I made a thread about that before, which wasn't much help.

And Dudeman, that could very well be part of the problem, and hopefully fix my crappy slow RPM drops when shifting.
 
How exactly do I fix that? Have to see a mechanic I suppose?
 
Thanks for the awesome responses guys, they're definitely shedding some light on the issue, and I actually have some hope of getting a decent intake now that I know where to kind of get the SARDS one from. I'll look into it soon once I've got some dough to spare :)
 
Keep the ideas coming!
 

Admin
http://www.6gc.net/forums.ndex.php?showtopic=91467

MAF sensor: The MAF sensor is no different than any other MAF, but the BEAMS ECU treats it differently. The BEAMS ECU is incredibly finicky when it comes to the MAF and it has very tight tolerances. The BEAMS ECU relies very heavily on the MAF to determine the air/fuel ratio, and it was designed to work with the stock intake. If the MAF begins to malfunction, the ECU will trim fuel, causing your engine to run improperly. Unfortunately, this means that the ECU cannot cope with any other intake besides the stock intake. This will throw the MAF readings off, meaning you will not get proper air/fuel ratios and therefore cutting power, often significantly. The best alternative to the stock intake is the SARD Sports EX Plus intake, available from rhdjapan.com, but there have been several dyno charts showing gains by replacing an aftermarket intake with the OEM intake. You can buy just the Redtop intake lid, which has the MAF housing built in, and it will fit right on top of your stock intake box, giving you a full OEM BEAMS intake.

I'm pretty sure the Beams intake box is larger than the standard 3sge as I had to source a different larger air filter for my Beams, so you'll need the complete setup for it to work correctly.
If you were coming to the Wakefield Park Challenge in January we could have tried swapping my intake setup into your car to see if it fixes the problem. Unfortunately Melbourne is a bit out of my way sorry.

rikkir
I'm pretty sure the Beams intake box is larger than the standard 3sge as I had to source a different larger air filter for my Beams, so you'll need the complete setup for it to work correctly.
If you were coming to the Wakefield Park Challenge in January we could have tried swapping my intake setup into your car to see if it fixes the problem. Unfortunately Melbourne is a bit out of my way sorry.

Yeah I figured that!

That's okay, I appreciate the help anyway :)

andezzat
And Dudeman, that could very well be part of the problem, and hopefully fix my crappy slow RPM drops when shifting.
 
How exactly do I fix that? Have to see a mechanic I suppose?

 
re: the throttle butterfly - well you could take the intake hose off and have a look first at the butterfly and see if seems sticky when you open it up and let it close. That would give you a yes or a no to that theory.
 
As for how to fix it? Well I'm sure I have read spraying some carburettor cleaner into it may do the trick - but I don't want to go suggesting things that may root your engine up. Someone that knows better may have an idea or two.

Can of subaru upper cylinder head cleaner.