The VAST system won't give you spark cut as it will just return to 10 degrees timing when you stop sending a signal to the IGT wire. However, you can use spark retard and a fuel cut to setup a rev limiter.
 
To test the TVIS, I would set the turn on value to 2000RPM and then stand at the engine bay with the car idling and blip the throttle to see if the TVIS actuator moves. I've just downloaded your files and will have a look shortly :)

Knightrous
The VAST system won't give you spark cut as it will just return to 10 degrees timing when you stop sending a signal to the IGT wire. However, you can use spark retard and a fuel cut to setup a rev limiter.
 
To test the TVIS, I would set the turn on value to 2000RPM and then stand at the engine bay with the car idling and blip the throttle to see if the TVIS actuator moves. I've just downloaded your files and will have a look shortly :)

I've restored it back to VAST ignition now and got the car idling properly again (apart from the revs bouncing up and down the first few minutes).
 
I confirmed the TVIS was working by toggling it on and off with the car of an reversing the logic for the triggering. Doing that I could hear the TVIS actuator move.
 
Did you find anything suspicious in my logs/tune? :)

I've got the car running properly with the coil being fired from the Megasquirt. I still seem to be suffering from a loss of power past 5000rpm over the factory ecu though so might need to take it to a tuner to have a look at it.
 
However. as I've completely disconnected the VAST from the coil my tacho doesn't work anymore.
 
Does anyone know how I could get that working again? I'm useless with electronics. Is there a cable from the VAST unit I can splice into and hook up to the coil or how do I revive the tacho?
 
Cheers,
Timmy

The dash relies on a voltage spike back from the ignition coil. Unfortunately it's the same wire you removed to power the coil directly. You can however get round it by wiring up a tacho booster to the TACHOUT pin on the ecu. I had to do this for my 4AGE 20V when I switched to Coil on Plug. There is a good guide to making a tacho booster for ~$15 - http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/22574-How-To-Tacho-Booster?p=1017046&viewfull=1#post1017046
To setup the tacho output, read this part of the manual and the following page.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Megasquirt2_TunerStudio_MS_Lite_Reference-3.4.pdf/Megasquirt2_TunerStudio_MS_Lite_Reference-3.4.html
 
Could you find a quiet bit of road and do a 1500rpm to 6500rpm pull in 2nd or 3rd gear while logging.
Just want to see what is happening.

xtimmyx
I've got the car running properly with the coil being fired from the Megasquirt. I still seem to be suffering from a loss of power past 5000rpm over the factory ecu though so might need to take it to a tuner to have a look at it.

While not a problem, I noticed that you have fuel and spark tables that are tuned for a boosted motor (100+KPA).

I assume these are Jerry Hoffmans old 4AGTE tables. Some more 4AGE specific tables could bring some benefits, even if minor.

would mine help him out? also could u post the AFR table?

Domma_aw11
would mine help him out?

Difference in compression and cams would probably make it easier to just run some TunerStudio generated maps.

Hi guys,
That tune is fairly old. I found a straightish piece of road earlier and did a few runs. It wasn't entirely but hopefully that shouldn't skew the logs too much. I've also attached my current tune in the zip file.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4cSFMGRzbLtUzRYczlKd21USU0/view?usp=sharing
Log 1: Two pulls in 2nd gear, slight downhill in the first pull and slight uphill in the second
Log 2: Same route as Log 1 but in 3rd gear
Log 3: 2nd gear, slight uphill
 
Thanks a bunch!

Looking at the logs, it doesn't look like there are any major issues. The AFR's are reasonable, the fuel looks fine and there are no errors popping up. You have a few minor things like the TPS not being calibrated (showing 103.7% at WOT).

You could do with a little more timing from 3800 RPM on wards.
I found with my old 16V and 20V, both motors liked 36 degrees of timing for a large portion of the table in WOT.
Some similar chatter across the interwebz, but each motor is different.
 
I would set it to something similar to this. (You can ignore my OCD adjustments of the table rows values...)

 
See how it performs with the addition top end timing and see what the butt cheek dyno says.
However, ideally to find out where the motor can gain or lose, you need to get it on a dyno.

oh, a lot of people told me 36deg was to high, mines down to 32deg, but its gone slower, but then I need to tweak my AFRS, but also, my car doent like making power over 7k... so ive been pondering shorter stack, from the head to the end of the stack is over 300mm