It could be that, ill poke around this weekend again to see if any ground wires are not connected but could one ground wire only affect the alternators abolity to charge?

Maybe my battery is on its way out??? Its a optima yellow top thats about 3 to 4 years old but i was under the inpression that AGM cell batteries lasted alot longer than the wet cell equivalent?

So new cable seems to work well, i had to take off my rear drivers side axle to get the inner cv boot replaced and now my hand brake light stays on.
It certainly does not feel like its on.
Worked fine before i pulled the caliper off, which i did with the hand brake off so it would not close on itself.
Am i meant to wind the piston back in even if i didnt change pads??

Thought I'd finally update my build.
I fixed the hand brake light that was always on (I dont remember what is was) and the reason the battery light was turning on was a damaged B+ wire.
Since the last post I have completely revamped the fuel system and made quite a few changes
It now has a 340lph fuel pump, I have removed the restrictive return less fuel system and upgraded that to a return one with a boost adjusting fuel pressure regulator.
The entire exhaust has been redesigned (kept those PPE headers though) and it now is way better designed plus it uses a varex muffler so that's a bonus
I have upgraded the stock oil pan to a Moroso oil pan (pain in the rear to install -_-) and also upgraded to a Mishimoto radiator and a 170 TRD thermostat (was a 180)
But most important of all I have removed the biggest issue that plagued this build, that blasted EMS4!!!
As it sits it is currently at castle hill performance having a Haltech 1500 elite installed and then tuned
I will post a pic of the dyno graph and hopefully a video of it during a power run in the next week or so

Glad to hear you sorted issues. The elite 1500's are great ecus, and thankfully you will have knock control seeing as you have the 1500 model. Your in good hands at castle hill, Dale is an awesome tuner, and knows the haltech product really well.

I got the car back on Wednesday and drove it home.
Dale did do a awesome job on it and it drive almost like stock.
Only two issue but neither is tune or tuner related but more SMT related.
1. The SMT shifts from 1st to second very harshly but that is nothing to do with the tune but more to the fact that the car is running a standalone wired in as parallel to the standard unit, from a quick bit of google searching this is normal, The rest of the shifts a quick and clean
2. From what Dale has told me the blower is too small for the engine and I start to lose boost from around 5000rpm, before that I have a solid 9psi but have fallen to 5psi by the time I get to the rev limiter and has unfortunately prevented me from making more power (I actually lost power except on the bottom end of the rev range I gained a little...)
 
Whilst it was getting tuned I got Dale to see if he could get it to rev past 7000rpm (apparently SMT can't go past that??) he was able to do so with no issues what so ever and has set my rev limiter to 7500rpm (I have up-rated valve springs and stage 1 cams), so either the 6sp SMT do not have that rev limiter built in that the Americans have claim prevents a 2zz going onto a SMT or the Australia spyder do not but either way this Spyder is going the 2zz route now that Dale has discovered that I can and do rev over 7000, maybe I'll get a blower from a lotus and chuck it on that and go E85
 
Unfortunately, I do not have a video and the car is currently unregistered (working on trying to get it blue slipped) so once it is road legal (cough cough) I shall get one of it and upload it
 
On that note I still have the AEM EMS4 plus PnP harness I brought for this build. If any one is interested in this chuck us an offer (will trade for MR2 spyder parts also) as all it is doing is gathering dust. I will only sell this to someone who knows how to reference ecu wires and tune a ECU as I believe either the base map is rubbish or one or more wires are not correct. It runs and idles but will not go over 3500rpm when revved in neutral and stumbles and misfires (possibly) when any form of load is applied.
Adam at J.E.M tried to tuned the car with it but was unable to due to unknown issues.

The SMT TCU looks at several values, in order to downshift correctly:  Target RPM, current RPM, RPM cut.  From what I've found out in testing, you can rev them out as high as you want without much of an issue.  However, coming back down, the system may refuse to shift, as the 'target RPM' may be over 7200rpm (where the stock motor limits) and that will cause problems.
 
Having said that, if you're losing boost as low as 5k rpm, there is little point in winding the motor out much past around 6k anyway - all you are doing up there is generating excessive heat and general wear.

I remember reading that info about the SMT not wanting to shift down if I try to early but that will be fine.
I only set the rev limiter that high as a test to see if it would go past 7.

You do SMT to my conversation s essdub?
What's the average price to do this?
If my SMT craps itself at any point I plan on converting to my.

Not if - When :P
 
Feel free to PM me and we'll discuss the car's requirements and go from there :)
 

SMT, faster than your grandmother, slower than you......