[QLD] FS: Project Hardtop SW20
Alright Guys,
Got what car minus drivetrain available. Its my old SW20 (1993 model, so bigger brakes & m/c. Both front and rear pads are 2000km old and front rotors are 2000km old DBA slotted & crossdrilled rotors). The paint is in very good condition(though after washing the dust off it today it could definitely use a bit of clay bar to get the dust off thats engrained itself in the wax), it was repainted only about 2000km before I took it off the road for the 'latest' build (the windscreen mold was cut out to when painting took place to flow the paint in around the front windscreen, I have an brand new OEM molding in the cupboard that will be supplied with the car, I never got around to getting someone to pull the windscreen out to fit the new mold). Don't have the time, patience or motivation to finish the project anymore so selling the car as is. Be great for someone after a project car, race car or would prefer to go to a hardtop from their targa vehicle and has the time and motivation to finish the project.
Interior is currently stripped as I was going to install factory black trim instead of the cream leather retrimmed gear. Have all the cream trim which can be cleaned up and returned to the car and have 90% of a standard black hardtop interior (one of the door trims got squished by my Evo, apart from that its pretty much complete. The black dash isn't mint though and has a little lift around the demister vents as is pretty much normal. I was trying to find a mint pad to put in). All interior parts will go with the car, including spare carpets. The spare driver side carpet I have is in better nick then the one in the car so would probably be worth swapping over.)
The car has no engine and box fitted. The fuel tank is out at the moment however can be refitted and will be supplied with sale with a standard pump hanger in it (no pump attached, cant be stuffed retrieving the one out of the wreck car I have here, but it'd be a good chance to throw in a walbro or something).
The car will be sold WITH adjustable whiteline swaybars fitted, as I gave the standard items away. The aircon gear was removed from the car long ago when I went W2A and fitted a front mount intercooler, so there is no AC condensor etc fitted up front. I have the original foglights that were fitted with the car in the shed and these will be supplied with sale of car. A number of other spare parts surplus to my needs will also be supplied with the car if the buyer wants them. When you view the car we can run through exactly what extras and spares will be included.
The car will NOT come with the RE30 wheels or Buddyclub Race Spec coilovers at the listed price, nor the carbing rear brace seen in the pictures, however, these can be negotiated to be included in the sale at additional expense. These parts will be replaced with some standard/old suspension and whatever wheels I can find cheaply to keep the car rolling (probably stockies or standard S14 rims) There are a number of near new trim and body parts on the car, these are a few years old now however only travelled 2000km on the car with my last engine build. These items include:
- Brand new OEM Toyota Quarter Windows
- Brand new OEM Toyota Door Moldings (along the top of the door, between the door and window)
- Brand new OEM Toyota Quarter Window vent thingies (These are very expensive)
- Brand new OEM Toyota Gen 3 rear tail lights inc, center panel and reverse lights
- Poly bushings all round
Essentially all the black trimming bits that fade or deteriorate with age were replaced, and I swapped out the previous gen 3 lights for a brand new set so I had perfectly clear new lenses.
The car comes fitted with some genuine autopista gear, these being:
- Rear wing
- Sideskirts
- Rear bar cover
There are some notable parts
missing from the car, primarily because the part fitted was aftermarket and I didn't retain the original part. Alternatively, the aftermarket parts, if not already sold, can be purchased at additional cost and refitted to the car for sale, these will be listed shortly. If in my journeys I look around the shed and find some original parts I've kept off of a halfcut or one of the wrecks I've had I'll remove the item from the below list:
- Front Lip (shineauto spec A available seperately)
- Engine Lid (Phoenix Power available seperately)
- Aircon gear from front of car, as mentioned earlier
- Engine and gearbox, as mentioned earlier
- Front strut brace, aftermarket item is sold
- Rear strut brace, aftermarket item still for sale seperately
- Standard fuel pump (if you really want one, I can probably dig you one up)
- Boot carpet, the original boot carpet was a hack job when I got the car. I never got a replacement as I had a heap of W2A and ECU/ ignition gear mounted up in there
- No dash cluster, original dash cluster was sold when I got the TRD cluster, TRD cluster has since sold, electric speedo cluster required.
That is all I can really remember, though when you view the car you can have a gander for yourself.
The only two real faults with the shell itself are as below:
- P/O did a hack job install of the gen 3 lights, instead of massaging the rear beaver panel they hacked holes in it with a grinder to allow clearance for the reverse lights
- P/O or there mechanic stripped the captive nuts for two of the rear cross member bolts, to solve this problem they just drilled up through the chassis rail and installed a longer bolt. The problem with this (so I found) is that when you torque it up to toyota spec you start to squish the frame rail. Two ways to fix this, cut open the frame rail in the boot and weld in a new captive nut, or, drill out the current hole that goes down through the top of the frame rail some more, bottom out a steel sleeve against where the original captive nut was mounted and then weld it in place. Option B is probably the easier option and likely what I'd do to solve the problem. Even with the bolts not as tight as they should be, in 50000km of driving since I got the car I never had any issues with the bolts coming loose.
Additional aftermarket parts that can be put back on the car and included with the sale as as below. I will offer them at a reduced price to the person that seeks to buy the shell, price for shell purchaser listed below, most of the items you can otherwise find the seperate asking in my for sale threads. These parts are:
- Carbing Rear Strut Brace (as new minus marks from where you tighten down the bolts on the top of the strut towers) $175
- Buddy Club Racing Spec Coilovers (VGC, approximately 5000km use. No leaks etc. Some markings on the aluminium locking rings and few scratches and stuff on the stickers on a couple of them) $1000
- Phoenix Power Engine lid $300
- RE30 wheels, 17x8 +38 front, 18x9.5 +42 rear. As new condition, no grazes. Tyres are Falken Azenis RT-615 225 wide on the front, 275 wide on the rear. Tyres only travelled 2000km. $3000
- Shineauto Spec A front lip, brand new, unpainted $200
These are the main items that are needed to make the car body 'complete' however if you spot anything else in my for sale posts that you'd like to add hit me up.
Price: Price for the shell with the previous listed things, but
WITHOUT the parts in the above list is $3000 OBO
Feel free to call me on 0430945041 to arrange an inspection. Location is North Ipswich, Queensland
Pics: 
post edited by -Totenkopf- - 2013/02/18 20:18:46