rock
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MAP ECU 3
Anyone currently using a MAP ECU 1 - 2 or 3?
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MRTurbo
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I know cogs is on this forum and pretty sure MuMan is too.  Didn't know MAP ECU3 existed but okay... I'm looking at getting one of these in the near future. From what I hear they are very good bang for your buck.
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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cogs
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MAP-ECU3 is essentially just an upgraded MAP-ECU2. New features include USB interface, more inputs and outputs, higher pressure internal MAP sensor, and incremental improvements to the existing functions. Best thing is the price is unchanged! Fire away with any questions rock, I'll try to answer them as best I can.
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rock
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Hi Cogs, I though you were using a MAP ECU. Are they user friendly or would you recommend a turner? What mode are you using, MAF Intercept MAP Y-Axis / MAF Y-Axis, MAF Elimination (is the self learn mode reliable for a base map) Thanks
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nuk1ear
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what sort of map accuracy does the MAP3 provide? what size map for fuel/timing? 32x32 tables? How do they control idle (PWM?)? I guess, how would you compare it to something like a haltech platnium sprint 1000, cause it is extremely cost effective at a glance!
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cogs
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rock Are they user friendly or would you recommend a turner? I find them to be very user friendly and intuitive to work with, but given some of the questions asked on the MAP-ECU forum some people struggle. Only you can answer that question for yourself, but if you understand what tuning is about and spend some time familiarising yourself with the ECU and its functions you should find it very rewarding to work with. I am happy to incrementally tune over a long period of time, and a piggy-back like the MAP-ECU is ideal for this. What mode are you using, MAF Intercept MAP Y-Axis / MAF Y-Axis, MAF Elimination (is the self learn mode reliable for a base map) I am currently using MAF intercept, MAP Y-axis. I have actually done very little tuning so far as the engine has other issues that I am yet to fix, no point spending time tuning only to do it all again! I have never used the self learn mode for MAF eliminate, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't help give you a good base map. Naturally there will be blank areas in the MAP even after letting it run in self learn mode for a while but filling in these blanks shouldn't pose a problem, again just by having an understanding of what is going on. nuk1ear what sort of map accuracy does the MAP3 provide? what size map for fuel/timing? 32x32 tables? How do they control idle (PWM?)? I guess, how would you compare it to something like a haltech platnium sprint 1000, cause it is extremely cost effective at a glance! The maps are 19 load x 26 speed for fuel and 19 load x 20 speed for ignition. They do not control idle, the factory ECU does that. You can't compare a piggy-back to a standalone, the closest thing in the Haltech range would be the Platinum Interceptor. Feature wise the MAP-ECU 2/3 eats the Haltech! I couldn't compare them for performance but I can certainly attest to the MAP-ECU2 performing exactly as expected, I cannot fault it.
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MRTurbo
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Are you using the MAP ECU for boost control cogs? if so how effective is it as I read on the MAP ECU website their claims about bringing boost on earlier (which is always a good thing!) - Does it utilise Duty Cycle/GAIN control to do this? Are you using a wideband O2 sensor and if so which one? Are you using the RPM switch to control TVIS? Cheers (Tax time can't come soon enough, time to bring the ol Gen2 in the 21st century! )
post edited by MRTurbo - 2011/06/20 14:27:01
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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cogs
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Yes, I am using the ME2 for boost control via a Mac solenoid (the same type as branded AEM, Haltech, etc and sold for 3 times their value!) and it works very well. The "fast spool" mode allows you to set a percentage of target boost, below which the solenoid remains energised (maximum bleed off) to prevent any wastegate movement. Once boost rises above the set percentage it starts to modulate the solenoid at the initial duty cycle value. If you set the percentage too high you can easily overshoot the target, so I guess it's effective if you find a good balance. Boost is mapped at 1000RPM increments, with each range having a target boost and duty cycle setting. There's a third field that the ME2 populates itself for reference, and that's calculated duty. You can approximate duty cycle during the initial setup, then go out for a run. The ME2 will then calculate, based on the boost levels achieved, very close to the required duty cycle for your target boost. If boost goes over target, the ME2 will reduce duty cycle at the rate specified in "gain" until target boost is reached, then write that value to calculated duty. Subsequent control will then remain based on the new value. I am using an Innovate LC-1 wideband. Excellent value product but it can be finicky. Have a look at the Innovate forums for details of many problems with these units. I should add though, mine has always worked fine, and the latest (still beta) firmware seems to have addressed most issues. Yes, I am using the RPM switch to control T-VIS, but I should note that the ME2 output needs to be inverted (easily done with a NC relay) to work correctly. I have also (partially) retained the factory ECU's boost and T-VIS control. For boost, I have the factory ECU output energising a relay which then connects the ME2 to the boost control solenoid - this allows the factory ECU to still limit boost to spring pressure when necessary, ie during warm-up and with low octane fuel. For T-VIS, I've connected a NC relay energised by the ME2 RPM switch, which then disconnects the T-VIS solenoid from the factory ECU. This allows the ME2 to always ensure T-VIS is open above its set point, but give the factory ECU control below it. Toyota programmed the factory ECU to open T-VIS below the trigger point at light loads, and also as a torque limiting function with low octane fuel. One of the key advantages of using a piggyback system is that you can retain the protective functions of the factory ECU, so I wanted to ensure that this was the case with my install. It's actually possible to significantly increase engine power using an ME2, without defeating ANY of the factory safeguards - if you tune too aggressively, the factory ECU will soon pull you up!
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MRTurbo
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There really should be ME2 thread on all of this! Your setup sounds very comprehensive and well thought out. The boost control features of the ME2 sound very good indeed. So, I'm just looking at getting all the bits and pieces for my setup and I found an ACDelco solenoid very cheap, how does the Mac compare? How does the ME2 deal with knock and will I need to buy another knock sensor or will the factory ECU still take care of this? (This system sounds like the way to go and I don't really know why it isn't more popular amongst MR2 enthusiasts. It really is a bargain as most EBCs will set you back hundreds! and it seems like its really easy to tune too.)
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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cogs
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PMR recommend a Delco solenoid for use with the ME2, p/n 214-474. If it's that or something similar you've found it should work well. The ME2 runs the solenoid at 20Hz, so any 3 port solenoid valve that runs reliably at that frequency and has the correct sized ports (around 1/4") will be fine. The ME2 has a quite comprehensive knock control system based on optional GM components. This really is only useful if the factory ECU's knock control is poor or non-existant, which certainly is not the case with a 3S! The Toyota closed loop knock control strategies work very well, and are probably based on a lot of R&D and fine tuning to the engine acoustics. You couldn't possibly hope to do better with a generic system, better to leave the factory system intact. As well as the features already discussed, the ME2/3 also offer: Fuel Cut Defeat Speed Cut Defeat Pressure switch (could be configured to switch on water injection at a set boost level) Speed adjust (can be used to recalibrate electronic speedos for bigger wheels/changed ratios etc.) Secondary injector control Launch control NOS activation based on min/max engine RPM, min/max boost, min throttle and vehicle speed Externally switchable dual mapping And probably more I've forgotten!
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MuMan
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Good to see some interest in the MAP ECU2/3, definitely one of the better interceptors and very cost effective. I did the same as cogs in relation to boost control/T-vis operation, for the same reasons. Although being gen3, with T-vis operation I set a boost pressure overide to open at a set boost pressure or 3200 rpm to accomodate a fast spooling turbo. Reason being, the gen2 stock ECU employs a count-down timer to activate the T-vis and consequently the opening point is dynamic rather than defined. When the T-vis is opening late in relation to rpm, there's a definite lean spike that occurs in the AFR trace and volumetric efficiency drops off. In terms of the MAP ECU2/3 itself, just think of it as an interface to the stock ECU that allows full control of many stock functions, as well as EFI & IGN..and a host of optional features, not bad at all for the cost.
post edited by MuMan - 2011/06/21 20:03:38
"Have you ever noticed when things get set in motion, the heavy end wants to go first."
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MRTurbo
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Thanks guys, That Mac solenoid you're using cogs - you wouldn't happen to have the p/n and good place to find one in Aust for it? :D Amazon wont ship me the Delco to here  also how is it wired up if using the Mac, will I have to buy a connector from somewhere? Any reason why the ME2 EBC runs at 20Hz? do some other standalone EBCs run at another frequency? Could also I ditch the AFM right upon installation, and just load in an existing fuel map for the Gen2 3SGTE? or leave it, as many people criticise the AFM for being a massive power restriction.
1990 SW20 GT 3S-GTE Targa 2001 Honda CBR600F4i
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cogs
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The p/n is 35A-AAA-DDEA-1BA, and it's available on eBay: http://www.ebay.com.au/it...Solenoid-/250818327731 I saw those Delco solenoids on Amazon, they are amazingly cheap. I don't know any details, but I believe there are agencies that will accept deliveries from Amazon and redirect them O/S (for a fee of course). I used a connector set from Autobarn which is similar to the ones used in the EFI systems on Holdens (waterproof, etc): I don't know why 20Hz was chosen but I guess it's a compromise between stability of the wastegate actuator (higher frequency is better) and precision of the solenoid's mechanical cycling capability (lower is better). You could ditch the AFM on install, but it's probably a better idea to leave it in place for a while and let the ME2 run in auto-learn mode. Also, T-VIS will cause you tuning headaches for reasons I've covered before, basically MAP based load sensing doesn't work well with variable VE engines. If you're going with MAF elimination it'll be a lot easier to also disable T-VIS. I don't yet have any useful data but I'm not convinced the AFM is as bad as its rep! I won't ditch it until I'm sure it's restricting further improvement.
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MRTurbo
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Thanks cogs Hmm, I know my family in CA will accept deliveries from Amazon, which is what i'll probably do since I'm in no hurry! (hopefully no fee) :) Can I disable the TVIS while I'm still running the MAF? I wont really care for it, if I can get earlier spool/better AFRs - IMO it's more of a hindrance to performance. I hear anyway that you don't need to ditch the AFM until you're at about 200+ rwkW...
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artymr2
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MRTurbo
Can I disable the TVIS while I'm still running the MAF? I wont really care for it, if I can get earlier spool/better AFRs - IMO it's more of a hindrance to performance.
Yes, On my previous MR2 the TVIS was playing up and would not open at high revs all the time. Just take off (and plug) the hose to the TVIS actuator (under the intake manifold - takes only a minute), and see how it drives, you can easily reverse it. On mine it made a huge difference to top end power, and I did not notice any decrease in mid/low performance. I just left it disconnected.
Black SW20 GT Turbo T-top
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