-Totenkopf-'s MR2 Specific Clearing Out Sale (Shine auto parts, engine parts etc) QLD

Starting to clear out a few parts that'll never go to use. 
 
Used MR2 Specific
Z) Cusco Front Castor Arms, SW20
Minor cosmetic blemishes.  VGC pillow ball ends, nice and tight and no slop.  Require late model (12/91+) caster rod mounts to use these.  They make the caster adjustable on Rev 2+ cars (not usually possible)
$225 
 
X) Adjustable tie rod ends
By adjustable I mean height adjustable.  These are a must if you are running roll centre adjusters to make relevant adjustments to the front tie rod ends.  Not that much to look at but come with the important bit - the press fit spindle that goes into the SW20 hub.  The rod ends are in used condition but have no slop - these can always be replaced when worn for a relatively small amount of money though.
$100
 
Y) Wolfkatz Fuel Pickup for SW20 MR2
This is the Wolfkatz fuel pickup for SW20, very nice bit of kit. Used when running an external fuel pump in an SW20 MR2. $330 from wolfkatz + freight from USA.
$250  
 
W) TRD 300KPH Speedo Cluster (electrical)
Electrical TRD Cluster, 300kph, reads 46755KM.  Faux Carbon Surround.
$275  
 
V) 4 Point Roll Bar, bolt in
This was originally used in an improved production racing car though this was some years ago.  don't know if it applies to current CAMS standards for roll hoops.  Piping OD is approx 44.5mm on the main hoop and 38mm on the rear braces & diagonal brace (from memory, will have to double check these).  Have the plates that go on the other side of the firewall and floor.  Also have a firewall carpet that has already been modified for fitment of the hoop.
$500
 
U) Carbonetics Twin Plate Clutch for 3SGTE
Wicked clutch.  I absolutely love these clutches, infact, I bought one for my EVO as well when I had to replace the clutch in it.  Great holding ability and drivability.  Drives as close to a standard clutch as you'll get for something that'll hold 700+hp.  This was used for 2000km, 1000km of which were run in KM's.  1350kg pressure plate.  Has twin carbon friction plates, these are in perfect nick, you wouldn't even be able to tell they were used pretty much.  The pressure plate, middle floater plate and flywheel have some heat marking evident as per the usual for a clutch that has been used.  This clutch could be thrown in as is no worries and the pain staking 'bed in' procedure on the clutch (you need to run in these clutches for 1000+ km) is already complete.  When i bought it this clutch cost me $2200 + freight to AUS.  Pick it up with a substantial saving.
$1550
 
T) Engine Lid Fan shroud w/ twin spal fans
These were from the very first run which I did in polished stainless.  These ran $450 each including fans.  Ever since I only got aluminium ones cut as the polished stainless sheet was just far too expensive.  If you want a polished stainless one of these, this is probably your last hope.  Fans are wired to a 2 pin plug, you just need to supply 12V at the plug and your ready to go.  Couple of small marks on the shroud (one from where my BOV rubbed and the other one, I don't really know how it got there) but overall VGC.  This one was cut to suit a phoenix power lid, but is backward compatible with the standard turbo lid also (fans just aren't as central under the turbo lid vents as the other version I had cut).  A standard turbo lid shroud however wont fit the phoenix power lid.
$300
 
S) Phoenix Power Engine Lid, the real mc'coy
Phoenix power engine lid.  This is a genuine item, you don't see many of these around, they are almost as rare as hens teeth.  Good general condition.  Paintwork is 90%.  Care of my top mount turbo the brand new paint job on it got a little heat damaged.  This is primarily evident on the underside along the leading edge where the paint cracked and a bit of it flaked away.  There was also some minor bubbling of the paint on the top surface above that area which is barely evident.  If you were spraying it a different colour that would obviously be rectified with the repaint however its also more then useable as is.  I didn't exactly run straight down the road to repaint it as the bubbling is only barely evident.
$400 
 
R)Carbing Front Aluminium Type II Strut Brace
This is as new.  Its even got the little bit of plastic that covers the carbing badge on it still intact.  A very nice front strut brace, IMHO even better then the TRD offering and MUCH MUCH lighter.
$300 
 
Q)Carbing Rear Aluminium strut brace
VGC, only marks on this are where the strut nuts tighten down on the end brackets.
$200
 
P)Spare 92+ Gearbox Parts
This box had about $700 worth of new parts and had just been rebuilt and used for appox $1000km before the casing it was installed in developed a crack around the bellhousing area.  This was discovered when I had the car on the hoist at a mates workshop.  Subsequently I was in a rush.  I was lucky enough (though had to spend $3500 on a half cut to get 'lucky') to find a nice clean low mileage gearbox where everything measured up good.  To save myself the time of having to reshim into the new casing I just did a diff install (swapped my quaife from this box into the replacement box) and put it back in.  This has been sitting around ever since as my spare gearset, however, will no longer be required.  Second and third synchro kits were installed (2nd gear kit included a new reverse gear and 3rd gear included a new hub sleeve) as well as new input and output shaft bearings. The output shaft lower bearing outter race unfortunately got moist during storage and I found it with a bit of surface rust forming on it.  I wiped it clean but the surface texture isn't per new so it may need replacing.  Apart from that, this gearset is mint and would be very suitable for someone with an early model box with tired synchros that is in need of rebuild.  You could have this gearset installed into your box and thus end up with the upgraded late model synchros.  Will throw in the casing with the sale.  Its more then likely repairable, I didn't have the time when it was noticed to go down that avenue - I needed the car out of my mates shop as he had customer cars to work on.  The sychro parts were professional installed by a gearbox shop at acacia ridge.  They measured up all thrust clearances on reassembly and notified me of some additional circlips (shimming type, different thicknesses) that were required for reassembly to have all clearances within specification.  All needle roller bearings were inspected and found to be AOK.  No differential is included with the box, which I guess is the only thing missing.  My quaife was originally installed in this but was subsequently moved to my other transmission.
$500
 
O) Jabsco Centripuppy Pump
An oldie but a goodie.  Read around MR2OC.  These are VERY popular for W2A installs and flow much more then the normal bosch pump.  Pump has -12AN flare fittings installed in the inlet and outlet.
$100 
N) Bride Seat rails RH side FG type
Good condition seat rails for bride seats that require an FG type rail (like the one I have for sale in other thread).
$200
  
  

 
NEW MR2 Specific
1) OEM Door Bezels (go behind your interior door handles) 
LH & RH side, brand new in Toyota packaging.
$20 per side 
 
2) OEM 5SFE Rear Main Seal (P/N 90080-31021)
If you are doing a 5SGTE build with a 5S Crankshaft you will require one of these. 
$35  
 
3) SW20 Rear Window Surround 'pad' (P/N 75959-17040-C0)
You know that little bit of rubber type trim that goes between the body of the car and the fibreglass trim that goes around the rear windscreen?  This is it.  Black in colour
$15 
 
4)SW20 Rear Wheel Bearings, OEM (P/N 90369-43008)
OEM Toyota wheel bearings. 
$150 for pair (freight inc)  
 
5)Shine Auto Spec G Sideskirts
Never got around to fitting these, sitting in their plastic ready for immediate delivery. 
$350 
 
6) Genuine Greddy Rear Pods, brand new in packaging with fasteners etc
Genuine items, perfect condition.
$275 
 
7) Gen 2 3SGTE -12AN sump fittings
I had these made some time ago, I originally speced aluminium as the material but they did them in steel.  Just recently had them zinc coated.  Got 7 to get rid of.  Used if you throw an aftermarket turbo on and want to run a -12AN braided line or similar for the drain line.
$25ea
 
8) Greddy style cooler fan shroud, last one
Fan shroud for greddy style coolers to mount a 9" davies craig fan to the intercooler.  Last one I have available
$55 shipped
 
9) Ferrea Valve Train Gear for shim over or shimless buckets
These were going to get used in the cylinder head I was building, then I got a gen 4 caldina head and decided to use the shim under setup and thus had to purchase shim under retainers, requiring springs to suit etc.  This includes 16 Ferrea Dual Valve Springs, 16 Ferrea Titanium retainers and 16 inner seats for the dual spring setup.  RRP is >$650USD + freight to Australia.
$500ONO
 
10) BC Billet 4340 Stroker Crankshaft
Thankfully I only ended up having to purchase one of these at the end of the day, compared to the 5 I was initially in for.  It involved some additional cost per unit but I didn't get stuck with 4 extras.  This is a billet 4340 crankshaft produced by Brian Crower to specification specced by me.  Stroke is 91mm so it works with standard stroker pistons.  Big end journals are already 3SGTE sized so any 3SGTE rod will work.  Flywheel PCD is per 3SGTE so no longer do you need to have your flywheel modified to fit your stroker engine.  3SGTE rear main seal is used instead of having to get a 5SFE rear main seal also.
$2000ONO
 
11) Custom Carillo Pro-H Rods
These are a custom carillo rod.  They are 1/4" longer then standard 3SGTE rods and come with the forced pin oiling option and CARR bolts.  These were big dollar rods, I paid around $1800 + freight.  You need a custom piston to run these rods (depending on what stroke you want to run).  I can help run you through the calculations in order to calculate the required compression height of the piston.  CP can do you custom pistons no worries, the cost is a few hundred dollars more then an off the shelf item (Around $800 last I spoke to them from memory).  I have (well had) a set of custom pistons that'd suit these rods on a 91mm stroke rod however they are going into Brendan (WIDEMR's) motor.  These are the best compromise between strength and weight, being extremely strong but lighter then the likes of Pauter and other 'heavy duty' rods.  As a bonus, pay for 4 and you will receive six.  There was a muddle up in the order and they manufactured me 6 rods, thinking my order was for a custom 2JZ engine.  I didn't have to pay for the additional 2 rods, so I'll pass the strike of luck on.
 
$1500
 
12) ARP CA625+ Head stud kit for 3SGTE
Brand new head stud kit sealed in ARP box, never been opened.  These are the best headstuds you can get.  Great for high boost applications.  Don't have hydrogen embrittlement issues like L19 either.
$350 shipped  
 
13) 3SGTE ARP Flywheel Bolts
ARP Flywheel bolts for 3SGTE, pretty self explanatory.  If someone buys the Carbonetics clutch I'll give these away free with the clutch, otherwise...
$50
14) Gen 3 style longer boot lock barrell, with key, brand new 
$70
    
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Additional Items & Photographs to come tomorrow.

Genuine Bride seat.

Shoot me a PM mate.  Will have to send it in a 500g satchel or something which is $5 or $6 from memory, shoot me your address details etc and I'll send you some account details.
 
Regards,
 
James.

Thanks for the info Brendan.  Cheers mate.

PM sent re: IC fan shroud

hi James, how are you? long time no speak
hope all is well, how much is total cost for side skirts and rear pods? to melbourne? 3025
and hows the fitment with the side skirts? does it need much work?
p.s engine is still not running, hopefully this year i'll get it on the road.
 

You've still not got it going Ken?! Damn me man!  I cant really talk though.  You've got a fully assembled engine sitting there though :)
 
95 SW20 should run electrical speedo, what gearbox do you have now though?  I hope you've got a turbo box for that engine your putting in! 
 
Side skirts are sorta on hold for now.  There are two othjer people interested, one of which is local so would be easiest.  If you read around on MR2OC you'll head that the shine auto skirts get raving reviews, fitment is just like the original greddy's, no hacking and cutting required.  Paint em and put them on basically.

Ken, it will work if you are using an electrical speedy sender in the car still.  Have a look on the back of the gearbox and there is a sensor assembly that bolts in.  If its just a 3 wire sensor its electrical, if you've got a big cable type thing coming outta there someone has converted it to mechanical.  Let me know what you find out. 
 
Here is a pic, LHS is electrical, RHS is mechanical.  The bit with the gear on it goes inside the transmission.